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roadside. Trails penetrate the
forest from the Doña Juana
Recreation Center, where you
can pick up area maps.
Coquí
frogs abound, and the endan-
gered Puerto Rican parrot is
among the 30 or so bird species
to be seen while hiking. Anglers
with permits can fish for bass in
the numerous lakes.
d
Map F4
• Doña Juana Recreation Center:
Carretera 143 Km 32.4; 787 999 2200;
open 7:30am-4pm
Coffee
Puerto Rico's gourmet coffee,
introduced to the region by
Corsican immigrants in the early
1800s, is considered one of the
best in the world. The cool, sun-
kissed mountains of the south-
west boast well-drained, fertile
soils - perfect conditions for
coffee production. Puerto Rico
produces and exports millions of
pounds (kilos) of coffee beans.
%
Hacienda Gripiñas
&
Utuado
This former coffee estate,
built in 1863, enjoys a
magnificent setting at a 3,280-ft
(1,000-m) elevation, at the base
of Cerro Punta. Hikers will love
this delightful base for exploring
the mountains. The plantation
home is now a
parador (see
p112)
that offers guided hiking
excursions, and coffee grown
on the estate is served in the
charming restaurant here.
Evoking the atmosphere of yester-
year, this farm-hotel is worth a
visit for a meal, even if you don't
choose to stay
(see p117)
.
^
Bosque Estatal Toro
This peaceful town was an
important 19th-century center for
coffee production, which funded
the building of the Neo-Classical
Iglesia San Miguel Arcangel,
completed in 1878, on the main
square. Nearby Lago Caonillas, a
serene lake, is a popular week-
end escape for city folk seeking
peace in the mountains. Reach
it via the scenic Carretera 140.
En route, stop off at the studio-
home of artist couple Miguel and
Olga Guzman.
d
Map E3 • Studio of
Miguel & Olga Guzman: Carretera 140
Km 17.7; 787 894 8765; by appointment
*
Cerro Punta
Negro
This forest preserve protects
over 10 sq miles (28 sq km) of
rain-drenched cloudforest, whose
waters feed tumultuous rivers
and the sierra palms that line the
At 4,390 ft (1,338 m), this is
the tallest peak on the island. It
features a
mirador
(lookout tower)
from which to enjoy spectacular
360-degree vistas. The steep and
narrow access road
off Carretera 143 is
daunting; park in the
gravel lot at the base
and hike the 656-ft
(200-m) path to the
top. The peak is
studded with unsightly
radio towers, but
remains attractive
thanks to an abun-
dance of hibiscus
bushes.
d
Map F4
• Carretera 143 Km 16.5
Hacienda Gripiñas
90
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