NORTHERN BRITISH COLUMBIA - British Columbia: Including the Alaska Highway - page 631

From Meziadin Junction, Stewart is 65 kilometers (40 miles) west along a spectacular
stretch of highway that crosses the glaciated Coast Mountains. The first 40 kilometers (25
miles) is all uphill, through thick subalpine forests and past lakes, waterfalls, and a string of
glaciers sitting like thick icy slabs atop almost-vertical mountains. Suddenly, and quite un-
expectedly, the highway rounds a corner and there in front of you is magnificent, intensely
blue Bear Glacier. The glacier tumbles down into small Strohn Lake, where small icebergs
float across the surface in the breeze. From Bear Glacier it's downhill all the way to Stew-
art. Keep an eye out for three mighty waterfalls on the north side of the highway, one after
another.
The twin towns of Stewart (Canada) and Hyder (United States) are separated by an in-
ternational border, but you'd hardly know it. Crossing into Hyder comes without any of the
formalities or checkpoints you'd expect at a border—until the mid-1990s there were no bor-
der checks at all. Now, upon reentering Canada, an ATCO trailer serves as the port of entry,
mostly in place to check for cheap U.S. booze purchased at the Hyder liquor store.
Stewart
The twin towns of Stewart, British Columbia, and Hyder, Alaska, straddle the international
boundary at the headwaters of the Portland Canal, the world's fourth-longest fjord. Ste-
wart (pop. 500) enjoys a stunning setting, with snowcapped peaks rising abruptly from the
surrounding fjord. After a 1910 gold strike, Stewart's population mushroomed to 10,000.
But the boom was short-lived, and what's left of the local economy now revolves around
the lumber industry. To get the lowdown on the town's interesting past, head to Stew-
art Historical Museum, in the original Government Agent Building (703 Brightwell St.,
250/636-2229, 9am-5pm daily May-Sept., donation). Displays include an exhibit on the
town's boom-and-bust mining industry and a room filled with memorabilia from Holly-
wood movies filmed in town, including Leaving Normal and Insomnia, starring Robin Wil-
liams.
The premier accommodation is the Ripley Creek Inn (250/636-2344,
www.ripleycreekinn.com , $115-135 s or d), a funky collection of guest rooms in historic
buildings centrally located to downtown. One is an old hotel, another was once home to
a brothel, another is above the Bitter Creek Café. All rooms have modern bathrooms and
most are in a contemporary style. Those in the main lodge overlook the estuary and have
wireless Internet. Nestled below the towering peaks of the Coast Mountains at the back of
town is Rainey Creek Campground (8th Ave., 250/636-2537, $18-24), with coin-operated
showers and firewood sales.