Travel Reference
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some of the original totem poles from around Haida Gwaii. Outside, you'll find a partly
completed canoe and a field sprinkled with more totems, these from a more recent era.
Across from the museum is a carving shed where artists can be seen working throughout
summer. Continue up behind the museum to the impressive weathered building with the
two totem poles out front; this is Sarah's Haida Arts and Jewelry (387 Eagle Rd., 250/
626-5560, 11am-5pm Mon.-Sat., noon-5pm Sun. July-Aug.), where you can buy custom ar-
gillite carvings, silk-screen prints, handcrafted silver and abalone jewelry, books on First
Nations culture, and greeting cards.
Accommodations and Camping
Several B&Bs in Masset provide lodgings and local flavor. Next to the pier, rustic M Cop-
per Beech House (1590 Delkatla Rd., 250/626-5441, www.copperbeechhouse.com ,
$100-110 s, $120-140 d) is a New England-style saltbox, decorated with sea treasures and
with a beautiful flower garden. Rates include a delicious breakfast, and for an extra $30 per
person dinner is available.
With six contemporary rooms right on the beach and backed by dense temperate rain-
forest of Sitka spruce, Alaska View Lodge (12 kilometers/7.5 miles east of Masset on Tow
Hill Rd., 250/626-3333 or 800/661-0019, www.langara.com , $125 s, $180 d) is the choice
of those looking for a piece of luxury in the wilderness. An oceanfront deck, an outdoor
hot tub, and a communal lounge area add to the charm. Continuing toward Tow Hill, Rapid
Ritchie's Rustic Rentals (250/626-5472, www.beachcabins.com , $65-120 s or d) is a much
more rustic setup, with cedar-shake cabins spread through the forest. If you can do without
modern conveniences, you'll love this place—but be prepared for outhouses, no electricity,
and no phones.
Village of Masset RV Site and Campground (Tow Hill Rd., no reservations, $15-24),
two kilometers (1.2 miles) north of Masset, is opposite the Delkatla Wildlife Sanctuary. The
campground features large, fairly private campsites with tables among the trees, powered
sites, and coin-operated showers. Another option for campers is to continue 20 kilometers
(12 miles) along the road into Naikoon Provincial Park.
Food
Even though Masset has a large fishing fleet, most of the catch ends up in mainland can-
neries. In town, Haida Rose Café (415 Frog St., 250/626-3310, breakfast and lunch daily,
lunches $6-10) is a friendly little place with good coffee, simple lunches, Internet access,
and souvenirs. But I encourage you to head east from town to M Moon Over Naikoon
(16443 Tow Hill Rd., 250/626-7737, 10am-6pm late May-Aug., lunches $6-8) for the quint-
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