THE KOOTENAYS - British Columbia: Including the Alaska Highway - page 410

American championships. Rent bikes from The Powderhound (2040 Columbia Ave., 250/
362-53119, 10am-5:30pm daily).
MM Red Mountain Resort
The site of what was once one of the world's richest gold mines is now part of an alpine
resort offering some of North America's most challenging lift-served runs. Facilities on the
mountain have certainly improved since the days of Olaus Jeldness, but Red Mountain
(250/362-7384 or 877/969-7669, www.redresort.com ) is no megaresort. Nevertheless, the
skiing and boarding are still world-class. While three mountains provide opportunities for
all ability levels, the resort holds most appeal for experts—and as any local will tell you,
the advertised 1,080 hectares (2,700 acres) of terrain doesn't do justice to the opportunities
for skiing in the backcountry. The heart-stopping face of Red Mountain is the star of the
show. But adjacent Granite and Grey Mountains offers a vertical rise of over 900 meters
(3,000 feet) each and almost unlimited intermediate, expert, and extreme skiing and board-
ing, mostly on unmarked trails through powder-filled glades. Beginners are catered to with
a magic carpet while shredders will gravitate to the terrain park. Lift tickets are adult $72,
senior $47, child under 12 $38, 6 and under ski for free.
Accommodations
The M Ram's Head Inn (250/362-9577, www.ramshead.bc.ca , $90-120 s or d), one of
Canada's premier small lodges, lies in the woods at the base of Red Mountain. Primarily
designed for wintertime, the inn offers 14 ultra-comfy guest rooms that ooze mountain mag-
netism. Factor in a congenial dining room (breakfast only in summer), a game room, a
sauna, an outdoor hot tub, and a spacious communal lounge with luxurious chairs and a
large fireplace, and you have the perfect place to spend a couple of nights. Winter packages
average around $140-180 per person per night, including lift tickets.
Food
Each morning, locals converge on the Sunshine Café (2116 Columbia Ave., 250/362-5099,
7am-4pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-2pm Sun., longer hours during the ski season, lunches $7-11) for
hearty cooked breakfasts from $7. The rest of the day, the café offers a diverse menu, in-
cluding Mexican and Indian dishes. Across the road, the outdoor tables at Alpine Grind
(2207 Columbia Ave., 250/362-2280, 7am-5pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-4pm Sun., lunches $7-11)
are the perfect place to enjoy delicious coffee and freshly baked pastries.
For dinner, my pick is Idgie's (1999 2nd Ave., 250/362-0078, 5pm-9pm daily, $19-28),
which features modern Canadian food in a casual setting.