VICTORIA AND VANCOUVER ISLAND - British Columbia: Including the Alaska Highway - page 280

son Bight, 20 kilometers (12 miles) east of Telegraph Cove, where they rub on the gravel
beaches near the mouth of the Tsitka River, an area that has been established as a sanctuary
for the whales.
Stubbs Island Whale Watching (250/928-3185 or 800/665-3066, www.stubbs-is-
land.com ) was the province's first whale-watching company and continues to lead the way
in responsible whale watching. The company's two boats, Lukwa and Kuluta, depart daily
from Telegraph Cove on 3- to 3.5-hour cruises from mid-June to early October. The exper-
ienced crew takes you along the coastline to view the whales in their natural habitat and to
hear their mysterious and beautiful sounds through a hydrophone (underwater microphone).
Both boats are comfortable, with covered areas and bathrooms.
The cost of the most popular whale-watching cruise, which departs up to three times
daily, is $99 per person. Reservations are required and you should call ahead as far as pos-
sible to ensure a spot. Dress warmly, and don't forget your camera for this experience of a
lifetime.
Kayaking is a popular way for experienced wilderness lovers to enjoy the whales
of Johnstone Strait. Telegraph Cove Sea Kayaking Rentals (250/756-0094,
www.tckayaks.com ) makes planning a trip easy, with sea kayak rentals ($45-60 per day for
single and double kayaks), GPS and VHF radio rentals, and a water taxi service to popular
wilderness campsites along the strait.
Practicalities
Many of the buildings on the boardwalk and around the bay have been converted to guest
accommodations and can be rented by the night (reserve well in advance) May through
mid-October. For reservations at any of the following options, contact Telegraph Cove
Resorts (250/928-3131 or 800/200-4665, www.telegraphcoveresort.com , May-Sept.). The
units range from extremely basic cabins ($110 s or d) spread along the boardwalk to three-
bedroom self-contained homes ($320) overlooking the cove. About the only thing they
have in common is the incredible setting. One of the best choices is Wastell Manor,
with the four well-furnished guest rooms ranging $165-195 s or d. A short walk from
the village is Telegraph Cove Resort Campground (250/928-3131 or 800/200-4665,
www.telegraphcoveresort.com , May-Sept., $28-33), with 120 campsites spread through
towering stands of old-growth forest. Amenities include showers, a laundromat, and an
abundance of firewood.
Head to M Seahorse Café (250/527-1001, 7am-7pm mid-May-Sept., $8-14) for choices
such as bison burgers with fries cut and cooked to order, which can be enjoyed on the