VICTORIA AND VANCOUVER ISLAND - British Columbia: Including the Alaska Highway - page 257

One of the island's few eateries, Kaffee Klatsch Bistro (3646 Denman Rd., 250/
335-2299, breakfast and lunch daily, $9-14) has European-style coffee drinks and a simple
menu that takes full advantage of island produce.
Hornby Island
Beyond Denman Island, Hornby Island has my favorite beach in all of the Gulf Islands, as
well as a distinct counterculture vibe that encourages visitors to relax and enjoy a slower
pace of living—even if it's just for the few days you spend in this small piece of paradise.
The 1,000 year-round residents are mostly self-sufficient, relying on each other and the loc-
al cooperative to live as simply as possible, roasting their own coffee and growing their own
fruit and vegetables; there's even a couple of small wineries. The best place to immerse
yourself in the island lifestyle is Ringside Market (corner Central Rd. and St. Johns Point
Rd., June-Sept.), a collection of local businesses at the east end of Central Road by Tribune
Bay Provincial Park.
The journey over to Hornby from Vancouver Island begins with a ferry trip from Van-
couver Island out to the dock on the west side of Denman Island and an eight-kilometer
drive to Gravelly Bay, from where an even smaller ferry crosses Lambert Channel every
hour, 8am-6pm, reaching Hornby Island in around 10 minutes. The roundtrip fare to Hornby
from Denman is adult $9.10, child $4.45, vehicle $21.45.
A large chunk of the island is protected by Mt. Geoffrey Escarpment Provincial Park,
including the highest peak and sea cliffs facing Denman Island, but most visitors grav-
itate to crescent-shaped Tribune Bay, where the longest stretch of sand is protected by
95-hectare (235-acre) Tribune Bay Provincial Park. The sand is as white as you'll find
on the Gulf Islands, crowds minimal, and the water slightly warmer than other Vancouver
Island beaches due to the protected bay. Stay at Tribune Bay Campsite (250/335-2359,
www.tribunebay.com , mid-June-mid-Sept., $35-40), adjacent to the provincial park, where
amenities include coin-operated showers, power hookups, and a playground.
Right by the ferry dock, old-fashioned Hornby Island Resort (4305 Shingle Spit Rd.,
250/335-0136, May-Sept.) offers boat rentals, tennis courts, and a laundry room. The four
motel rooms ($110) have water views but need renovating, the cabins (July-Aug. $900 per
week, spring and fall $120 per night) are perfect for families who need to spread out, and a
limited number of RV sites ($35 per night) are off to one side.