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south of town, guest units come in a variety of configurations, starting with one-bedroom,
kitchen-equipped suites. Some of these hold a prime beachfront location—ask when book-
ing. The best units are the newest: two-level timber-frame villas equipped with everything
from surfboard racks to stainless steel kitchen appliances. The heated floors and gas fire-
places are a plus during the winter storm-watching season.
If you subscribe to one of those glossy travel mags, you've probably read about the
M Wickaninnish Inn (Osprey Ln., Chesterman Beach, 250/725-3100, www.wickinn.com ,
from $460 s or d), which is regarded as one of the world's great resorts—and regularly
features at the top of Top Ten lists. Just for good measure, the in-house Pointe Restaurant
is similarly lauded. Everything you've read is true: If you want to surrender to the lap of
luxury in a wilderness setting, this is the place to do it. Designed to complement the rain-
forest setting, the exterior post-and-beam construction is big and bold, while the interior
oozes West Coast elegance. Public areas such as the restaurant, an upscale lounge, a re-
laxing library, and a downstairs TV room (plasma, of course) make the resort feel like a
world unto itself, but the guest rooms will really wow you. Spread throughout two wings,
the 76 rooms overflow with amenities, including fireplaces, oversized soaker tubs, super-
comfortable beds, and furniture made from recycled old-growth woods, but the ocean views
through floor-to-ceiling windows will captivate you most. The menu of spa treatments is
phenomenal—think hot stone massage for two in a hut overlooking the ocean, a full-body
exfoliation, or a sea hydrotherapy treatment.
Camping
All of Tofino's campgrounds are on the beaches south of town, but enjoying the great
outdoors comes at a price in this part of the world, with some campsites costing more
than $50 per night. The best of the bunch is Bella Pacifica Campground (250/725-3400,
www.bellapacifica.com , mid-Feb.-mid-Nov., $40-50), which is right on MacKenzie Beach
and offers over 100 protected tent sites and full hookups, as well as coin-operated showers
and a laundry room.
Along the same stretch of sand, Crystal Cove Beach Resort (250/725-4213,
www.crystalcovebeachresort.com , $58) is one of the province's finest campgrounds. Facil-
ities are modern, with personal touches such as complimentary coffee each morning and a
book exchange. Many of the sites are in a private, heavily wooded area.
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