VICTORIA AND VANCOUVER ISLAND - British Columbia: Including the Alaska Highway - page 183

In the vicinity of the James Bay Inn, James Bay Coffee and Books (143 Menzies
St., 250/386-4700, 7:30am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-9pm Sun., lunch $6-9) is an old-fashioned
used bookstore that also offers a simple yet varied menu including cooked breakfasts, BLTs,
and gluten-free vegetarian chili.
Pub Meals
Swan's Hotel (506 Pandora St., 250/361-3310, 7am-1am daily, $12-20) is home to a stylish
brewpub with matching food, such as a portobello burger and a smoked salmon wrap. As
well as the typical pub pews, the hotel has covered a section of the sidewalk with a glass-
enclosed atrium.
While these pubs exude the English traditions for which Victoria is famous, Spinnakers
Brewpub (308 Catherine St., Esquimalt, 250/386-2739, from 11am daily, $13-29) is in a
class by itself. It was Canada's first in-house brewpub, and it's as popular today as when it
opened in 1985. The crowds come for the beer but also for great food served up in a casual,
modern atmosphere. British-style pub fare, such as a ploughman's lunch, is served in the
bar, while seafood and West Coast dishes such as sea bass basted in an ale sauce are offered
in the downstairs restaurant.
Seafood
Fish and chips is a British tradition and is sold as such at a number of places around town.
Most centrally located is Old Vic Fish & Chips (1316 Broad St., 250/383-4536, 11am-8pm
Mon.-Sat., $12.50-18), which has been in business since 1930. As at any island fish and
chip joint, pay the extra for halibut.
Down on the docks below downtown, at the foot of Broughton Street, Red Fish Blue
Fish (1006 Wharf St., 250/298-6877, 11:30am-7pm, $10-20) is a takeout place ensconced
in a brightly painted shipping container. Unusual for a fish and chip joint, the emphasis is
on wild, sustainable fisheries. Prices reflect the waterfront location ($20 for two pieces of
halibut with chips), but the quality of fish is excellent. Other choices include a grilled scal-
lop burger and wild salmon fish tacos. Expect a line-up in summer.
My favorite two places for fish and chips are away from the tourist-clogged streets of the
Inner Harbour. For the very best quality, Fairfield Fish & Chips (1277 Fairfield St., 250/
380-6880, 11:30am-7:30pm Tues.-Sat., $7-10.50) is a winner. Fish choices include halibut,
haddock, cod, and rockfish, which are served with perfectly cooked chips. Other options in-
clude a halibut burger and deep-fried oysters. It's located along Fairfield Road, a few blocks
north of Moss Street.