VICTORIA AND VANCOUVER ISLAND - British Columbia: Including the Alaska Highway - page 181

AFTERNOON TEA
Afternoon tea, that terribly English tradition that started in the 1840s as a between-
meal snack, is one ritual you should definitely partake in while visiting Victoria.
Many North Americans don't realize that there is a difference between afternoon tea
and high tea, and even in Victoria the names are sometimes used in place of one an-
other. Afternoon tea is the lighter version, featuring fine teas (no tea bags) accompan-
ied by delicate crustless sandwiches, scones with clotted cream and preserves, and a
selection of other small treats. High tea (traditionally taken later in the day, around
6pm) is more substantial—more like dinner in North America.
The best place to immerse yourself in the ritual is at one of the smaller tearooms
scattered around the outskirts of downtown. You can order tea and scones at the
James Bay Tea Room (332 Menzies St., 250/382-8282), but apart from the faux-
Tudor exterior, it's not particularly English inside. White Heather Tea Room (1885
Oak Bay Ave., 250/595-8020, 10am-5pm Tues.-Sat.) is a small, homey setting, with
a great deal of attention given to all aspects of afternoon tea—right down to the hand-
made tea cozies.
If the sun is shining, a pleasant place to enjoy afternoon tea is Point Ellice House
(2616 Pleasant St., 250/380-6506, 11am-4pm Thurs.-Mon. May-June, 11am-5pm
daily July-early Sept.), a historical waterfront property along the Gorge Waterway.
The price of admission (adult $25, child $13) includes a tour of the property. As
you'd expect, it's a touristy affair at Butchart Gardens (800 Benvenuto Dr., Brent-
wood Bay, 250/652-4422, from noon daily); afternoon tea is $32 (with Cornish pas-
ties, quiche, and more).
The Fairmont Empress (721 Government St., 250/389-2727) offers the grandest
of grand afternoon teas, but you pay for it—$65 per person. Still, it's so popular that
you must book at least a week in advance through summer and reserve a table at one
of seven sitting times between noon and 5pm.
Finally, Murchies (1110 Government St., 250/381-5451, 9am-6pm daily), in the
heart of the downtown tourist precinct, sells teas from around the world as well as
tea paraphernalia such as teapots, gift sets, and collector tins. The adjacent café pours
teas in a North American-style coffeehouse.