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deck of your ocean-facing room. It's tucked away in a quiet location overlooking a small
cove, yet it's only a two-minute walk from the center of town. Well-furnished in a casual
yet elegant style, each of the seven rooms features a private deck and a fireplace. A con-
tinental breakfast is included in the rates but spa services are extra.
You'll find cheaper places to stay in Tofino, but you won't find a lodge like M Pacific
Sands Beach Resort (Cox Bay, 250/725-3322 or 800/565-2322, www.pacificsands.com ,
from $285-610 s or d), which is perfect for families and outdoorsy types who want to kick
back for a few days. Set right on a popular surfing beach eight kilometers (five miles)
south of town, guest units come in a variety of configurations, starting with one-bedroom,
kitchen-equippedsuites.Someoftheseholdaprimebeachfrontlocation—askwhenbook-
ing. The best units are the newest: two-level timber-frame villas equipped with everything
from surfboard racks to stainless steel kitchen appliances. The heated floors and gas fire-
places are a plus during the winter storm-watching season. Pacific Sands is a family-run
operation, which translates to friendly service and repeat guests who have been visiting
since childhood (and still bring their surfboards).
If you subscribe to one of those glossy travel mags, you've probably read about the M
Wickaninnish Inn (Osprey Ln., Chesterman Beach, 250/725-3100, www.wickinn.com ,
from$460sord),whichisregardedasoneoftheworld'sgreatresorts—andregularlyfea-
tures at the top of Top Ten lists. Just for good measure, the in-house Pointe Restaurant is
similarly lauded.Everythingyou'vereadistrue:Ifyouwanttosurrendertothelapoflux-
uryinawildernesssetting,thisistheplacetodoit.Designedtocomplementtherainforest
setting, the exterior post-and-beam construction is big and bold while the interior indulges
in West Coast elegance. Public areas such as the restaurant, an upscale lounge, a relaxing
library, and a downstairs TV room (plasma, of course) make the resort feel like a world
unto itself, but the guest rooms will really wow you. Spread throughout two wings, the 76
rooms overflow with amenities, including fireplaces, oversized soaker tubs, comfortable
beds, and furniture made from recycled old-growth woods, but the ocean views through
floor-to-ceiling windows will captivate you most. The menu of spa treatments is phenom-
enal—think hot stone massage for two in a hut overlooking the ocean, a full-body exfo-
liation, or a sacred sea hydrotherapy treatment. The Wickaninnish is a five-minute drive
south of Tofino, but who cares? You won't want to leave.
Camping
All of Tofino's campgrounds are on the beaches south of town, but enjoying the great
outdoors comes at a price in this part of the world, with some campsites costing more
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