Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
You will find cafés and restaurants on each island, but not a single McDonald's or sim-
ilar fast-food chain. Groceries and gas are available in most villages; banks and ATMs are
less common.
Before you head for the islands, get the latest rundown from the Victoria Visitor
Centre in downtown Victoria, from the Sidney Visitor Centre on the Saanich Peninsula
on Highway 17 near the Swartz Bay Ferry Terminal, or from Tourism Vancouver Island
(250/754-3500, www.tourismvi.ca ) . Island Tides is a free bimonthly publication; you'll
find the most recent edition online at www.islandtides.com . The website
www.gulfislandstourism.com is loaded with tourist information, or pick up a free hard-
copy version of the Driftwood newspaper once you're en route by ferry.
SALT SPRING ISLAND
Largest of the Southern Gulf Islands, 180-square-kilometer (70-square-mile) Salt Spring
(pop. 10,500) lies close to Vancouver Island, immediately north of Saanich Inlet. Ferries
linkthesouthandnorthendsoftheislandtoVancouverIsland,andmyriadroadsconverge
on the service town of Ganges. The island is home to many artisans, along with hobby
farmers,retirees,andwealthyVancouveriteswhospendtheirsummersatprivategetaways.
Ganges
Ask any longtime local and they'll tell you the island's main town, Ganges, is overcom-
mercialized.Butit'sstillquaint,andwellworthvisiting—attheveryleasttostockupwith
supplies. Set around a protected bay, the original waterfront buildings have undergone a
colorful transformation, and where once you would have found boatbuilders you can now
browse through art galleries, shop for antiques, or dine on innovative cuisine. One of the
most eye-catching shops is the boardwalk gallery featuring the whimsical painting of Jill
Louise Campbell. On a smaller scale, Mahon Hall (114 Rainbow Rd., 250/537-0899) is
filled with arty booths during regular art shows, and the Saturday market in Centennial
Park also showcases the work of local artists. Head to Salt Spring Books (104 McPhillips
Ave., 250/537-2812, 8:30am-5pm daily) to pick up some holiday reading or check your
email on the public-access computers. Within walking distance of the waterfront, at the
end of Seaspring Drive, is Mouat Park, a quiet reprieve from the bustle.
Provincial Parks
Landlubbers have plenty to see on Salt Spring. From the Fulford Harbour ferry terminal,
takeBeaverPointRoadeastto486-hectare (1,200-acre) Ruckle Provincial Park. Theac-
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