North through British Columbia - Alaska and Points North: Tips and Tales from the Road - page 41

The terrain we are driving through has now changed from the tree-clad slopes of the lower
canyon to a dry and dusty hill-scape that reflects that summer heat back onto itself. It's a
punishing-looking country that lacks obvious charm. A few years back we were following
some of the 4WD tracks in back of Lytton and got ourselves quite thoroughly confused. I
won't say “lost” because we could always smell the river so we knew the way home, but
there was some uncertainty about whether home was in front of or behind us. Having come
to consensus on the “confusion” issue we stopped in at a cabin we came across.
The resident hermit was friendly. Not desperate for company, not at all. Just friendly. He
showed us around and through his eyes I could appreciate the stark beauty of the landscape
he loved. There is a profound peacefulness to a place that requires a 4WD to access. And
no, there was rarely enough snow to trap him in place. The climate here is exceedingly dry
and that includes winter snowfall. With a good set of wheels beneath him he easily sought
out the city lights whenever he chose to.
Lytton sits at the convergence of the Fraser and Thompson Rivers, an area renowned for its
white water rafting and kayaking. Today we keep going on up to Cache Creek where we
turn north on Hwy #97 towards the first night's destination, Quesnel.
This area of British Columbia is called the Cariboo Chilcotin. The landscape is one of
rolling hills, open grasslands and literally thousands of lakes. The area draws fishermen, as