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knitting together in a tight thatch over the swampy summer terrain. The thatch they form
supports other plants in establishing themselves.
We spot marmots and arctic ground squirrels and rabbits and moose. Grizzly bears are sup-
posed to be very common up here. We've seen motor homes where people keep track of
their bear sightings by writing in the dust on the back of their vehicles. They've seen liter-
ally tons of grizzly bears. Us? Nada.
We make good time, arriving at the half way point, Eagle Plains, in late afternoon. Eagle
Plains is located on a 300 m /975 ft high plateau. Climbing the escarpment to the plateau
the highway parallels the Continental Divide for 60 km /38 mi. Water on the right side of
the road flows to the Beaufort Sea while water on the left flows to the Bering Sea.
The Eagle Plains plateau is 200 km /125 mi wide with the Eagle Plains Hotel and RV
Park situated on the north edge of the plateau. It's open year-round, a refuge for travellers
even during severe winter conditions and blizzards. The architecture is the same style as
that in Alaska - long banks of industrial trailers hooked together into bedrooms and dining
rooms and so on. We are in the campground - $10.50 for the use of the bathrooms with hot
showers. Free WIFI in the lobby and access to cafeteria and bar if we want it.
The minute we opened the door a million mosquitoes descended on us but as quickly as
they arrived, they disappeared.
With the sun descending the heavy weather lifts, expanding our view out to the massive
valleys sweeping down from the plateau and into the horizon where a magnificent sunset
paints the sky.
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