Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
COOPER & THE BUTTERFLIES
In 1834 this area was part of a Mexican land grant known as Rancho El Sur, owned
by Juan Bautista Alvarado. Six years later Alvarado sold the land to Juan Bautista
Rogers Cooper, a Monterey sea captain and merchant. Built in 1861, Cooper Cabin
remains the oldest standing structure in Big Sur. Cooper used the land to graze live-
stock and also launched the first large-scale production of Monterey Jack cheese.
In the late 1800s the narrow wagon road from Monterey went only part way
down the coast, so settlers gathered annually near Cooper's riverside cabin to picnic,
fish, and dance while awaiting the arrival of supply schooners. Andrew Molera was
Cooper's grandson, and in 1965 his sister donated the land in his name.
Visitors still wonder at enormous bluegum eucalyptus trees, planted when the
cabin was built. In 1986 state park officials, concerned that this introduced Australi-
an species was crowding out native willows and alders and negatively affecting wild-
life, began to remove eucalyptus saplings. Biologists opposed the cutting, as mon-
arch butterflies roost here during their long migration. The biologists and butterflies
ultimately prevailed, preserving the giant trees.
From October through January, monarchs return to Big Sur to roost amid the
stands of eucalyptus. By day watch them glide from branch to branch in the spacious
canopy of this exotic tree.
Turn right and head north up the old wooden stairs. You'll find yourself 30 feet
above the shoreline as you pass thick patches of poison oak, golden yarrow, and
sagebrush. Continue the gentle climb for ever-expanding panoramic views of Molera
Point and the rugged coastline to the north and south.
Look south to spot sculpted driftwood strewn across the white sand. Look below
and see if you can discern where the sand is tinged purple. This purple sediment
is eroded almandite, a rare mineral. Also notice the jagged rocks in the surf. These
contorted rocks were heavily metamorphosed within the numerous faults that divide,
break, and reshape the Big Sur coastline, most all of them associated with the San
Andreas Fault.
Skirt the secluded coves and beaches till you reach a bench atop the bluff over-
looking 2-mile Molera Beach, a great spot to watch for sea lions, seals, and sea ot-
ters as they feed and play among the giant kelp beds. California gray whales migrate
south to Baja from December through January and return north to Alaska in March
and April. Take a moment to enjoy the sweeping view before returning the way you
came.
Back at the Trail Camp Trail junction, turn right and continue your route west.
In less than a hundred feet, the path emerges on the beach at the mouth of the Big
Sur River. During the dry season (May through October), when less water flows into
the ocean, sand builds up and blocks the river mouth, flooding the lagoon and inland
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