Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
with 'chile' (Mexican pepper). Some of the chile eaten in Mexico is so 'hot' that I could not
possibly eat it, but the natives swallow it with glee, although it brings tears into their eyes.
After a mouthful, they immediately drink pulque . When the witty governor saw that I shied at
the chile , he jokingly told me that it was rather like a fierce dog, for once it knows a person
it no longer bites. The band of an orphan asylum supplied the music, and when the majority
were full in every respect, the speeches began, even the prisoners who acted as waiters being
allowedtoshowtheirskillinoratorywhichtheyusedunsuccessfully,tryingtotakeadvantage
of the governor's presence to ask for freedom.
InthislittletownImetSydneyFranklin,aboyofsome25yearsofage,andtheonlyAmer-
icanbullfighter.HewasborninNewYorkandhadtakenupthisstrangeprofessioninMexico,
wherehehadlivedforsomeyears.Heshowedacertainamountofskillatthetime,andpeople
who understood the taurine art told me that he promised to become a star some day.
Throughout this State a member of the Charro Association accompanied me with a servant
of his, and I was delighted with the company of this gentleman who had travelled many coun-
tries informertimes. Hewasdressedinthecostume oftheregionandworelarge chaparreras
(chaps) made of tiger skin. I was sorry when we came to the border of the next State, where
my companion turned his horse's nose towards home again.
In the historical town of Queretaro another reception had been prepared for me, the towns-
folk turning out in a body to welcome us.
Among other things a jaripeo (rodeo) was given in the local bullring, where I again wit-
nessed some daring and skill. The most remarkable feat performed was when a charro tied
his rope, ending in a running noose, around his neck, and, when thus tied, roped and threw a
wild horse. The slightest mistake in judgment would probably have been fatal, but even after
having done the trick once, he twice successfully repeated it. To make things more difficult,
he did all manner of fancy twirling and skipping through the rope before lassoing the animal,
which he did without stopping to take aim, bringing the horse down in a flash.
I shall never forget how a man of the crowd suddenly appeared in the bullring and came
staggering towards the place where I sat. It was obvious that he had been celebrating freely,
and that in consequence his balance was not what it ought to have been. When he was dir-
ectly in front of me he saluted in real bullfighter's style and proclaimed to the universe that he
would ride any bull in my honour. The crowd greeted this promise with wild applause, for it
was obvious that we were in for a bit of very dangerous fun.
Alively andverynasty-looking bullwasthenletinandlassoed, andwhenaropehadbeen
tiedaroundhisbodytoaffordthewould-berideragrip,themanwashelpedonandtheanimal
released. Thebullstartedofflikearocket,buckingandatthesametimetryingtodighislong,
sharp horns into the rider on his back. It was not long before the man lost his balance and fell
off, but his left hand remained stuck under the rope by which he had been hanging on, and
the infuriated bull dragged him along, all the while throwing his head back and ripping open
the unfortunate fellow's shirt. The crowd was wild with delight, although it looked as if the
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