Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
assist in pulling one out of a mud-hole, a request I was obliged to refuse as my horses were
not accustomed to such work. Anyway, I grew to hate automobiles; the drivers showed very
little consideration for me and seemed to delight in seeing the horses rear and plunge when
they passed us. They were my pet aversion from the beginning of the trip to the end, and if
all my wishes had been carried out, Hades would be well supplied with motors and motorists.
Being only human, I must confess that, while driving about in a comfortable car I hold other
views about them, but I am speaking here from the point of view of the horseman.
Miles away from the next village I was caught in a heavy storm and was very pleased to
arrive at a small wayside ranch where guests were received. The horses were turned loose in
a good field and with feelings of relief I went inside to shelter and warmth. This ranch, or hut,
was a small two-roomed place and several men were inside drying themselves at a good fire.
When I had introduced myself in the proper manner, i.e., by shaking hands with everyone, I
was given a seat near the fire and presented with a
mate
. This is a pear-shaped gourd with
an opening at the narrow end, which is half-filled with 'yerba' (Paraguayan tea) and filled up
with hot water. The resulting infusion is sucked up through a metal tube (
bombilla
). It is very
refreshing and stimulating and is the national drink. Nopeon starts his day'sworkuntil he has
had three or four
mates
, which, with a piece of
galleta
(hard biscuit), keep him going until he
has his breakfast, which is taken about midday. Only one
mate
is used for a party; the host
usually takes the first brew which is supposed to be inferior to the others, and is sometimes
just sucked up and spat out; it is then refilled with boiling water and handed to the first guest,
and so on until it becomes too weak. It is surprising how long one charge of
yerba
will last.
To a stranger the idea is a bit repugnant at first, but one gets used to it in time, and to refuse to
participate would be considered an insult.
There was also an
asado
to be eaten. This is a strip of meat, preferably the ribs, stretched
on a wire or a kind of spit and roasted slowly over the ashes. When properly cooked - and the
natives are nearly all experts at the job - it is most delicious. Forks are not considered neces-
sary, the fashionable way to eat it being to take one end of the portion in the left hand, grasp
the other with the teeth, and then cut a mouthful off with a knife.
The fireplace was extremely primitive and the room was full of acrid wood smoke which
made my eyes smart and brought me to tears.
We all slept in the same room and as there were no beds, which perhaps was just as well,
wemadeourselvescomfortableonthefloorwiththehelpofoursaddles,thesaddle-clothsand
sheepskins making a comfortable couch and the saddle doing duty as a pillow.
The type of saddle used in the plains of Argentina is different from that used in the moun-
tain districts, the saddle proper being formed of two pads connected by strips of hide, and
so formed that when it is placed on the horse it presents a flat surface. First of all one or,
more usually, two saddle-cloths are placed in position, then comes another of leather; on this
is placed the saddle and the whole secured by a broad cinch of raw hide, sometimes as much
as a foot in breadth; over these are placed sheepskins, and finally a covering of soft leather -
