Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
away to the left, thus throwing the steer. Although this feat might appear simple to the casual
observer, it requires good horsemanship, strength, and great judgment to accomplish it.
This
fiesta
ended with national dances and a bullfight, the chief of the traffic department,
GeneralGomezVelazco,beingthe
matador
.Nohorseswereused,andalthoughthebullswere
on the small side I was glad to be up in the gallery, and not in the ring.
The Mexican Press also gave me a banquet out in the floating gardens of Xochimilco, the
Venice of Mexico City, and later the motor-cycle police amazed me with their daring acrobat-
ics and dangerous stunts.
Invitations to theatres and an outing to the famous pyramids of San Juan de Teotihuacan
and many other acts of sympathy delighted me, and kept me on the move every day.
Together with the members of the small Argentine colony I had the pleasure, in a small
measure,ofrepayingourMexicanfriendsfortheirnumerousactsoffriendshipbygivingthem
an
asado criollo
,asthe wayofroasting steers andsheep overafire outinthe openiscalled in
the Argentine.
One of the most beautiful sights I have ever beheld was when I was driven far out of town
duringthenighttoseethesunrisefromthetopofamountainnamed'CerrodelaEstrella'.The
vast valley of Mexico spread below us, wrapped in inky blackness, and the bright lights of the
town glimmered in the distance like fairy lights and bright glow-worms. The mountains stood
out against the moonless sky like rugged, black silhouettes, while thousands of stars gave a
faint light. By degrees the horizon to the east began to assume a dark violet and greenish-blue
colour, and as the light became stronger these colours changed into every possible tint, whilst
the peaks began to glow. When the first sunrays flashed over a ridge, nobody in our small
partycouldresistanylonger,andasinaconcert,whenamasterhasamazedtheaudiencewith
a faultless execution of a particularly fine passage all of us cheered and applauded. The Great
Architect of the Universe had shown us one of His masterpieces.
I believe I should have been royally entertained for an indefinite time longer but, besides
feeling the strain, I had to prepare to continue our march, which promised to be much easier
from here on. I was sorry to have to leave so many good and kind friends behind, but it had to
be done sooner or later.
I spent a few days taking leave of everybody, and giving the horses some preliminary jogs
after so long a rest in excellent stables with the best and richest fodder. Every day the horses
had visitors, and a little bird told me that two prominent ladies of the American colony never
failed to make a pilgrimage to the stables to offer some special tit-bits to Mancha and Gato,
who had won their admiration and affection and, although I never met these ladies, I have had
asoftspotinmyheartforthemeversince,andIamsurethatthehorseswouldbeonthelook-
out for them, as they were then, should they ever be back in those same stalls.
All final preparations completed, I decided to leave the city next day. To my surprise
crowds of mounted
charros
were assembled near the stables, ready to accompany me out of
townforsometenmiles,where,aftermanyembracesandferventhandshakes,Isadlywatched
