Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Every morning a large group used to assemble in the hotel, some to play cards, and others
to roll dice whilst drinking their 'aperitivos,' and this was the time when all the news was dis-
cussed. There was plenty to talk about, for at the time the Spanish heavyweight boxer Uzcu-
dun had lost a fight to a 'gringo,' as Americans are called in Mexico, and, not only this, but
Al Capone in Chicago was in serious difficulties with the American authorities. On one oc-
casion a little Spaniard, who had never been known to have done a day's work, was wagging
his tongue as if he were in training for a talking marathon. When he came to summarise his
speech, this human loudspeaker warned the listeners that all these happenings were certain
proofs that the 'gringos' were endeavouring to absorb and exterminate the Latin race!
Every now and again, when he felt dry, the little Spaniard asked somebody to stand him
a drink, whereupon one of the amused audience would turn to the fellow behind the bar and
shout, 'Bring the
gachupin
another mouthful.'
Gachupin
is not a very complimentary name
Mexicans haveforSpaniards,forwhomthemajority harbouragreatdislike. Someeveningsa
disgustinglyfatTurkmountedaroulette tableinabackroom,and'lifted'themoneyoffthose
who hoped to do the same to him.
ThevillagewhereIspentmyforcedstaypridesitselfonatram-linethatconnectstheplaza
with the station. As in Guatemala City, the two or three tram-cars they have are propelled by
oldFordenginesandcomerattlingalongwithradiatorsboilingoverandfoaminglikeoldwar-
horses.
During my last few days' stay here it was obvious that political trouble was brewing, and
everybodyfeltasifsittingonthecraterofavolcanojustabouttobreakoutineruption.Minor
shooting affrays had already taken place, and the whole police force was changed by disarm-
ing them late one night, throwing them out in the street and putting new men in their place. It
wasbothinteresting andamusingtowatchthenew
vigilantes
whentheywerelearninghowto
load rifles, things they had obviously never handled before.
ThelapfromtheGuatemalanbordertoTehuantepec,some250miles,leadschieflythrough
lowswamplandandjungleforests,andtravellingisatanytimedifficult,muchmoresoduring
the rainy season which had already set in. Friends advised me to take a guide along with me,
but although we hunted high and low we could find nobody who had ever travelled the whole
distance. True, some had walked along the railway line, crossing the swamps and rivers over
the many bridges, but we could not do this and had to go another way, as these are specially
built to make it impossible for animals to walk over them. Finally, however, a man who had
been recommended to me agreed to accompany me, although he had never been far along that
route. I bought a horse for him and another to carry the pack. I was very careful in the choice
of them and picked animals that were accustomed to the swamps and coastal climate. Should
they prove useless in the mountains I could always exchange them for others later, if need be.
