Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Crystal-clearwaterscamebubblingandfoamingdownthemountainnearthehouse,andbeau-
tiful waterfalls made a continuous roar which, together with the mild breeze, made me feel
pleasantly sleepy. I could have stayed in that little paradise, with its lovely flowers and ferns,
formonths,buteachtimeIlookedtothenorth-westsomethingseemedtotellme'goon'.Had
I not listened to this call, the chances are that I would have lost my dear old pal Gato, as will
be seen soon.
After I had taken leave of my excellent host we slowly picked our way down, following
a short cut that led from the plantation down towards the Mexican border. Gradually, as we
descended, it became warmer and warmer, until at last the air was steamy. With the change of
temperature the vegetation became more exuberant. Large-leafed tropical plants were grow-
ing everywhere, and insects made the horses swish their tails and throw up their heads in vain
efforts to rid themselves of the pests. The sudden change from the bracing, cool climate of the
highland to the hot and sultry atmosphere of the coast made the perspiration ooze out of our
pores and produced a feeling of depression and complete loss of appetite.
Back in the tropical regions once more, I vainly tried to sleep in the oppressive heat whilst
swarms of insects buzzed around my net. Sleeping under a mosquito net has its advantages,
but the want of air and the heat that collects under it make one feel very uncomfortable. Many
a night have I passed under my net-tent without being able to sleep for more than a few
minutes at a time, rolling from side to side until I was glad to rise and light a fire and pass the
restofthenightsmokingandwatchingthehorses;smoking,Imean,whenIwasluckyenough
to have a good supply of 'comfort'.
One morning when I went to take the horses to water, I noticed that Gato had gone lame in
the right fore. At first I thought he had possibly twisted his leg whilst coming down-hill over
the rough and stony trail, or that he had perhaps been kicked during the night.
We went along very slowly, as Gato seemed to find it difficult to walk. I was quite excited
when I reached Rio Suchiate and saw the small steel bridge, the middle of which marks the
border between Guatemala and Mexico. A detachment of Guatemalan border officials, who
were expecting me, gave us the farewell in that country, and half an hour later we stepped on
the bridge and crossed over. We were on Mexican soil!
From the first moment we wearily stepped on Mexican soil at the bridge near Tuxtla Chico,
untilwejoggedovertheinternationalbridgeacrosstheRioGrandeintoTexasatLaredo,Mex-
ican hospitality and friendship almost embarrassed me.
