Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
I had been extremely careful all the way, and had taken every precaution against malaria,
but I had become so confident that I would never get it that I had been careless in San Sal-
vador, and the result was that I had my first attack of fever whilst I was in Guatemala City. I
had obviously contracted it below in the hot parts of Salvador, and had several nasty attacks
later, paying the full price for my carelessness, especially when I suffered in places where I
had to sleep on the ground like a dog, and travel instead of being able to lie up. However, in
spite of several violent attacks, I never let it interfere with my ordinary programme, as will be
seen later.
I enjoyed my stay in this capital, where I soon made many friends, and where the horses
recuperated so much that Mancha bucked when I mounted him again as I was about to leave.
Thepeoplewhohadcometoseemeoffwereamazedatthis,andnowonder,forwhohadever
heard of a horse bucking after having travelled well over 6,000 miles, and this under the most
trying conditions imaginable?
A good road, winding through wooded and hilly country took us to Antigua, where I spent
two delightful days.
Before the town was destroyed, nearly two centuries ago, it had 80,000 inhabitants and
no fewer than forty-four churches, the ruins of most of which are standing to this day. The
only building that was not seriously damaged during that disastrous volcanic outbreak is the
massively built town hall, which is still as good as new. The ruins show how splendidly
everything had been built, especially the churches. Huge arches and pillars remain standing,
and many of the ruins are overgrown by vegetation. In some, Indians have built their huts and
made shelters, where they live almost like cave-dwellers.
Overlooking the town are three famous volcanoes; the Acatenango (12,000 ft.), the Volcan
de Fuego (Fire Volcano), and the Volcan de Agua (Water Volcano), not one of which has been
active for many years. The last two are thus named on account of one having shot out fire,
cinders and smoke, whereas the other spouted out exclusively water, and in such quantities
that this was chiefly responsible for the destruction of the old town.
The climate is eternally spring-like and almost anything grows here. Fine big trees give
shade everywhere, and beautiful glades afford pleasant walks. Except for a few tourists who
visit the place there is very little movement in Antigua today.
