Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Again I saw cattle being unloaded, clubbed, poked and kicked to make them drag them-
selves into the corral where they were given no food or water. Quite a number lay down to die
whilst the
gallinazos
(buzzards) were perched on nearby roofs and trees, patiently waiting for
a certain repast.
Here the river is much wider than in Girardot, and possibly even a little more oily and
muddy. Life in the village seems like a slow-motion picture, and the people move along as
lazily as the very river. The atmosphere is hot and sticky; I hated the place.
I went from one dirty shipping office to another, but it was hard to get information from
the uncivil and sleepy employees. Some of the offices were open and jackets were hanging
on nails, but the
empleados
were out, probably drinking 'cafe,' or, maybe, having a siesta. As
this seemed hopeless, I went aboard several ships to speak to the
capitanes
, but found every-
body asleep, excepting the gangs of mestizos and niggers who were loading and unloading
the cargo, whilst others were sitting on the bank looking on. At last, on the third day, I heard
a rumour about a ship that was to arrive at noon, a ship on its way down to the coast; I had
hopes that something might turn up and hastened to the shipping office, which I found open
but empty.
I had waited what seemed an eternity when a dusky fellow came slouching in. He slowly
seated himself but never looked at me, nor did he ask what I wanted. After a while he began
tosharpenapencil,andthenopenedadrawerfromwhichhetookaprintedform,allthewhile
puffing at a cigarro that matched his complexion. When he had finished with his pencil he
slowly raised his eyes and looked at me, and condescended to examine my papers. I thought
he would never finish filling in those forms, but somehow he managed to do it and I heaved a
deepsighofreliefwhenhehadsignedthem,adorninghisnamewithamostelaboratewriggly
line and endless curls that seemed to fill him with pride and satisfaction, judging by the way
he admired his work of art, cocking his head from side to side while he held the
documentto
before him.
Victor was waiting with the horses, which we got on board by walking them over a plank
that looked none too secure.
There were only two passenger classes on our 'good ship'. The first are permitted to sleep
and walk on the upper deck, whilst the second are at liberty to make themselves comfortable
among the cargo and cattle or wherever they find space. I had booked first, but when I looked
for my cabin I was informed that this would cost six dollars (gold) extra. Having paid the
amount I was shown what they call a
cabina
, which reminded me of the first photographic
dark-room Ihad entered as a schoolboy,excepting that the laboratory was relatively clean and
slightly ventilated. The bed consisted of a wooden frame with nothing on it, passengers being
expected tobring'extras'withthem.Isettoworkcleaning outtheplace, andwiththesaddles
made the beds for the boy and myself.
The poor horses suffered more while travelling in the barge lashed alongside the steamer
than ever they had done on the march. The broiling sun beat down on the low tin roof of the
