Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
NeedlesstosayIdidnotmakealongstayinthistown,andfollowingthemountainoustrail
north we stopped at a
posada
. I was looking forward to a good and much-needed sleep, but,
as bad luck would have it, I was not to enjoy this luxury.
We had fed the horses with chopped sugar-cane and had finished our supper of beans and
hot cocoa, a general favourite in Colombia. Just as we were spreading our blankets on the
floor preparatory to turning in, the trampling of hoofs was heard outside. Two men whom, al-
though not in uniform, I afterwards found to be policemen, dismounted and unstrapped what
seemed to be a big bundle from a third animal. This bundle proved to be a mad woman they
were taking to an asylum in Bogota. The poor woman could not walk when she was lifted off,
andgroanedinagonywhenshetriedtodoso.Iwasobligedtogoandconstruct abarricade so
that my animals would not fight with the newcomers' mules, lest they get hurt, besides losing
their fodder.
Many of the natives never buy fodder for their beasts when they see another traveller's an-
imals with plenty. The construction of such barricades and the cleaning of the place, picking
up broken glass, wires, etc., was a job I often had to do, and I can recommend better pastimes
after a long and tiring journey than this seemingly light task which was a constant nightmare
to me, but which I never neglected.
With all the noise the mad woman made throughout the night we did not get much sleep.
Inthemorningshestruggleddesperately withthetwomenwhentheytriedtoliftherontothe
mule to continue the journey, and I often wonder if she arrived in Bogota alive, for she was
already in bad condition when I saw her.
The trail led over mountains and through valleys; in parts it was good, in others bad. At
night we sometimes stopped at some
posada
or in some uninteresting dirty settlement.
Forsomereason,inexplicabletome,mostofthesevillagesarebuiltontheverytopsofthe
mountains.Alloneisabletobuyinthelittleshops,wheresuchexist,is
panela
(unrefinedsug-
ar), tobacco, unsweetened chocolate, rice, beans, sardines, and, of course,
aguardiente
(spir-
its),aswellassomeotherarticlesthathelptomakeexistencepossibleforthesesimplepeople.
I often bought my horses
panela
, of which they had become very fond. Many a time did Man-
cha follow me right into these little stores, well knowing what was coming his way, much to
the consternation of the vendors. When I was hungry I had to eat those unattractive and dan-
gerous sardines; but then, travellers must not be choosers there. I shall not be sorry if I never
taste sardines again.
AswewerenearingMedellinwehadawonderfulviewoftheCaucavalley,withitssilvery
river winding north and south as far as the eye could reach. In this neighbourhood tobacco is
grown. The leaves are hung to dry in huge huts with high straw roofs, the shelters being made
of bamboo canes, with sides open to admit as much air as possible.
The nearer one gets to Medellin the neater are the huts and houses. Peasants passed us, go-
ing afoot with little leather bags slung over their shoulders. In these bags they carry money,
cigars, etc.
