Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
up the material. Like many churches and chapels throughout the country, that of Montserrat is
said to be miraculous. Here I noticed a phenomenon common throughout the countries along
the Pacific coast. Practically all the better class harbour a great hatred for Americans, or any-
thing that is American. However, I invariably found that they have a habit of aping American
manners and ways, and if a man happens to have been in the States he will do his best to let
oneknowit,andotherswillrepeatedlyusethetwoorthreewordsofEnglishtheyknow.Mex-
ico is the only country where I never saw this. Whilst in Bogota, a small pleasure resort was
inaugurated. Imagine my surprise when I heard that it had been named 'Coney Island'. The
idea struck me as being as funny as the way they pronounce it: 'Connay Eeslahnd.'
I had not come here sightseeing, and as soon as I had collected all the geographical data
thatexistedIstartedthereturntriptotheplacewhereIhadleftthehorses.AlthoughIhadmet
many charming people I was disappointed with Bogota, a town I found to be years behind the
times, dull and gloomy.
The following extract out of
El Mundo Al Dia
(Oct. 12th, 1926) ought to prove both inter-
esting and amusing.
'ThefiestasorganisedbytheinspectorofLasCrazes,DrM.,inthedistrictofElVergel,forthe
purpose of raising funds for the completion of the park which this official proposed to make
in the plaza of Girardot, have taken place as fixed in the programme. Yesterday the inspect-
or informed us that no bloody deed had occurred and that the fiesta had been very orderly.
However, yesterday the first tragedy took place. During the bullfight a beast gored an indi-
vidualnamedMarcosAguirrewhosufferedseriouswounds.Havingbeentakentothehospital
he died a few moments later. This incident did not damp the gaiety of the fiesta which contin-
ued undisturbed.'
I was in possession of all the information I needed about the regions north, towards
Panama. Experts informed me that it is utterly impossible to make the trip across the 'Choco'
andthe'Darien'.Theseregionsarevastswampsandvirginforests,manyofwhichhavenever
been trodden by human foot. No land, but only fluvial means of communication exist, and to
attempt to this crossing would be a foolhardy enterprise in which both horses and rider would
perish. This opinion was confirmed by General Jaramillo, who had unsuccessfully attempted
to take a Colombian army across these regions during the war with Panama. This gentleman
had spent twenty-five years of his life exploring those parts, and is probably the outstanding
expert on these regions.
My plans were made; I would forge ahead as far north as possible, and then take ship
across to Colon. Accordingly, as soon as I arrived in Ibague, I saddled up the mule and started
