Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
A Long and Eventful Side-Trip to Bogota
I needed information about the regions in the extreme north of Colombia and southern
Panama,andtheonlyplacewhereIcouldobtainthiswasinthecapital,Bogota.Allmycorres-
pondence had been forwarded there, so it was a case of crossing the mountains and returning
again in order to proceed north. There is no railroad between the Cauca and Magdalena val-
leys, the only means of transportation being mules, oxen and horses, and it would have been
foolish of me to make the trip to Bogota and back with my animals, so I looked for a good
placewhereIcouldleavetheminchargeofVictorwhilstImadethejourneyalone.Nearavil-
lage called Santa Rosa de Cabal I found a place with excellent pasture, and when I had made
all arrangements I hired a good mule to take me over the mountains to the railroad terminus
on the other side. Before I left I went to have a final look at the horses and as I walked along a
stonypathInearlytrodonapoisonoussnakewhichlaythereinthesun.Itstruckatmeseveral
times, but luckily I was wearing heavy riding boots and thick woollen stockings.
After riding my bumpy mule some thirty miles, I reached Armenia, a town at the foot of
the Quindio, the mountain I had to cross next day. Most of the way the trail had been bad and
muddy and traversed beautiful forests.
Next morning I started to climb up the mountain. The highest point one has to reach is
called 'La Linea', nearly 10,000 feet above sea level. From there I had a marvellous view of
theCaucavalleyandofthemountainsaround.Immediately afterpassing'LaLinea'thedown
grade begins and the trail is quite good. I spent the night in a filthy posada (inn) in a small
settlement called San Miguel, half-way down the mountain, and at daybreak I was on my way
again, for I wished to reach Ibague by noon, in time to catch the train that was to leave at 2
p.m. The trail winds steadily down, and I passed many pack-trains of mules, and oxen with
enormous horns, groaning under their heavy loads.
Pack-trains usually take four days to make the crossing. The arrieros (drivers) know the
places where there are grass and water, and when they unload the animals they pile up the
loads to form four walls. Over these they stretch a large sheet of canvas which makes the
roof of a very nice little hut. Inside they make a fire and do their cooking. With all the saddle
blankets and rugs they are able to make themselves some quite comfortable beds, luxuries
which I often envied them.
As I gradually descended into the valley it became warmer. Shortly before I reached my
destinationthetrailledthroughoneoftheprettiestcoffeeplantationsIhaveeverseen.Aroar-
ing and foaming mountain stream goes through it, and the coffee bushes show a wonderful
green in the shade of high trees that form a regular tent over them, protecting them against the
rays of the sun. Coffee plantations require shade, except those in high places.
At noon I was in Ibague. I put the mule in a good stable, where the residents were to look
after it until I should return.
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