Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
first experience in that line had proved a disaster, Mancha having 'unloaded' him before he
had time to think what was happening. However,the boythought nothing ofgoing under him,
between his legs, hanging on to his tail, or cleaning out his hoofs, actions of which the horse
never took the slightest notice.
For several days my feet had been feeling very hot and were constantly itching. Try what
I would, the irritation became steadily worse. Victor, who had been watching me stamp on
the ground several times whilst we had dismounted for a brief rest, laughed and told me I had
niguas
. As I had never heard this name before he explained that they are small parasites that
boreundertheskinofone'stoes.Iftheseareleftundisturbedforsometimetheywilllayeggs,
often under the nails, which must then be removed. The feet swell terribly and become very
sore, and there is a great danger of contracting blood poisoning.
When I had taken off my boots and socks the boy showed me several grey spots under the
skin. With a needle he then began to peel back the skin from these places, and carefully dug
in the needle at the edge of the grey spots and pulled out little jelly-like bags, about the size
andshapeofaveragepearls.Thisseeminglysimpleoperationrequiresagreatdealofskilland
much practice. It is common to see Indians pick these pests out of each other's feet and, later
on, on several occasions I had trouble with them, beside making the acquaintance of several
other varieties of parasites, big and small.
Niguas
alsoworryhorses,attacking themjustabovethehoofs,butastheirskinistoothick
they only cause the beasts to stamp. Any grease mixed with a little powdered sulphur or cam-
phor keeps them off, but often these simple remedies cannot be found for weeks. I have seen
Indianswiththeirfeetcompletelydeformed,resemblingcauliflowers,where
niguas
havebeen
left to do their work.
From the top of a hill Quito came in sight. The town is situated on a slope in a hollow and
is surrounded by mountains. To the south the Cayambe glitters in his eternal mantle of white,
and the abundant vegetation, typical of cool climates - eucalyptus trees and pretty flowers -
makes it hard to realise that one is only within a few miles of the equator.
The boy was so excited and keen to hurry along that he did not notice that the girth of his
saddle had slipped back. Suddenly I heard a snort and some wild stamping, and turning round
I saw poor Victor fly over his pony's head and land on the hard road on his back. Fortunately
hewasonlyslightlybruisedandshaken,andtheincidentfurnishedbothofuswithamusement
until we rode into the city.
