Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
made by Raimondi, an Italian scientist who lived two generations ago. Even among people
who hold high official positions one finds this sad lack of geographical knowledge.
I had let the horses' manes grow long, to protect their necks and heads against the fierce
sun,andtheirtailsalso,tofightoffthedifferentpeststhattantalisehorsesinthetropics.When
my animals were more or less acclimatised to the heat, and I had changed my equipment to
suit conditions along the coast, I made final preparations to leave Lima, after having enjoyed
a most pleasant stay.
The first day's ride was to take me to Ancon, some twenty-odd miles. Knowing that I would
find no fodder there I had sent a bale of hay ahead by train, for a railway connects this little
bathing resort with the capital. About halfway I was stopped by a soldier of the
guardia civil
who demanded to see my licence for firearms, a document I did not possess. He very politely
asked me to accompany him to the local headquarters where I explained to the
capitan
who I
was, and this gentleman issued me a permit in order to prevent my being held up again.
This little incident proved to be a blessing in disguise, for the officer informed me that a
river I had to cross a little further ahead was high and therefore dangerous, and the
capitan
kindlysentasoldierwithmetoshowthebestplacetocross.Inevermindedswimmingrivers,
but when I had to do this right alongside railway bridges that are impossible to cross with
horses, I was none too pleased. If it was possible to swim the horses near the bridge I usually
unsaddled the animals and carried everything over on foot, walking on the sleepers, and thus
saving myself the trouble of having to wrap everything up in a waterproof sheet.
A few miles before we reached Ancon we entered the first sandy desert. Near here the last
battle between Chile and Peru was fought, and the dead were buried in this stretch of desert
where they fell. Intime the windsshifted the sand,exposing amass ofskulls andbones.What
a resting place for those who gave their lives for their country!
It was a good thing that I had sent some hay ahead, for otherwise the horses would have
had to pass another night on empty stomachs. Water is very scarce in many places along the
Peruvian coast, and even in this fashionable bathing resort it is sold at 10 centavos a tin.
From Ancon north, practically to the border of Ecuador, I had planned to follow the coast.
Rains are almost unknown in these regions, in fact, there are parts where people have never
seen rain fall. A few towns and villages stand on the rivers that run down from the Andes and
crossthedrycoasttothesea,andwhentheseriversarehightheyareverywildanddangerous.
Some of the valleys are watered by small irrigation canals, and where such irrigation exists,
fine crops of sugar-cane, cotton, and rice are grown. Between the distant rivers are the vast,
sandy deserts where nothing grows and where the sand dunes rise one after another, like huge
