Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Stillfollowingthegoodroadwetraversedalongandmonotonousplain,andtowardseven-
ingreachedahigh
loma
,onthehighestpointofwhicharetheruinsofanoldIncaobservatory
called Kcasa Cancha (Tired Fox). The road now changed into a rough and winding trail, and
when we came to the top of the
loma
an almost breathtaking view opened before our eyes.
Far to the west, ranges and ranges of high peaks rose out of the tropical mists below, and the
golden evening sun gave the high clouds the appearance of rolling masses of fire, smoke and
vapour,whilstpatchesofskywerepurple,violetandlightgreen.MrW.,whohadneverbefore
beheld anything so wonderful and inspiring, stood there gazing at the indescribable vastness
and wild beauty of the panorama, and seemed to have forgotten that we had a long way to go
yet before the day's travelling was done. I almost had to pull my gazing friend away, for night
would soon come, and it would be dangerous to be overtaken by darkness on the steep trail
wehadtofollowdownintothevalleythatlayhiddenbelowthemistsonwhichthemountains
seemed to be floating. With the approach of late evening it was already getting chilly where
we were, and without losing time I went ahead and commenced the descent.
The trail was very steep and rocky, and experience had taught me that I made quicker pro-
gress on foot than mounted, so I went in front to pick the best way, and the horses followed
behind me like two dogs. When an animal has to zig-zag up or down a 45 degree slope, and
this over a trail with loose rocks and steps that are one or two feet high, it is much safer and
easier to dismount, for with less weight to carry, a horse or mule will have more confidence.
When a rider has to go on a long trip he must consider the animals' backs, for should they get
sore, he will be left on foot, and the best saddle is bound to injure the animal if the rider is not
careful insuchplaces. Apart fromthis, what wouldonedoifahorsetwisted orbrokealeg far
away from the nearest human habitation?
It is much more tiring to go mounted up or down such steep and rough inclines, and the
danger of a nasty fall is ever present. Whenever I came to precipitous trails, and there were
many, I divided the pack between the horses; if we had to go downhill I went ahead, but when
climbing I put Mancha in front and caught hold of his tail, and in this way he pulled me along
without much effort. I always put him in front because he obeyed my commands, and I could
guidehiminanydirectionbypullinghistailonewayortheother.Gatowasmuchtooeagerto
go ahead, and even if I tried to make him stop he went on until he was out of breath; the trick
of guiding by the tail did not work with him, and so he had often chosen the worst foot trail,
for he obviously thought the straightest trail was the shortest. When the Indians go afoot they
never follow zig-zags down hill, but make the descent in straight line, hopping and jumping
over rocks like goats and sliding and running over loose stones and pebbles. It can therefore
easily be imagined how awkward and even dangerous it is if a horse chooses to follow such
foot trails. At first Mr W. insisted on going mounted, but soon his bones were aching with the
bumps and jolts he received, or possibly the beginning of saddle soreness made him change
his mind, and so he dismounted and followed my example.
