Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Chapter 8
Summer
Summer was upon us. With the long, hot days the fruit progressed at a rapid rate from hard,
green peas to soft, sweet grapes in a few short months. Sean worked all hours.
A party of AOC 'police' arrived including Joel, the vigneron with the mass of greying-
blonde hair whohad scared me the first time Imet him, and ourold friend from the Chamber
of Agriculture, Monsieur Ducasse. They were on site for yet another contrôle (check) of the
vineyards that we had declared for Saussignac production. This time they were checking the
development of the fruit, the yield, the vineyard health and cleanliness - no weeds - to en-
sure they met appellation standards. Sean was out working in the merlot so I showed them
the five rows below the pressoir that he had ear-marked for Saussignac, our dessert wine.
'These vines are too loaded,' said Monsieur Ducasse, his eyebrows frowning to underline
his point.
'The grapes are too big and not ripening fast enough,' said Joel, adding salt to the wound.
Sean would be furious if we were stopped from making Saussignac because of a few ob-
servations by this inspection team.
'We only want to do five rows,' I said. 'Maybe we should look at the other vineyard Sean
declared. Perhaps it will be better for the Saussignac.'
Ellie was asleep safe in her cot so I locked the house and took them down to Lenvège,
where there was a mix of ancient sémillon, sauvignon blanc and muscadelle white grapes.
With foresight Sean had declared more vineyard than we wanted to do.
'These are far better,' said Joel. 'But you need to do some green harvesting and some de-
leafing.'
Green harvesting is the removal of some of the grapes a month or two before harvest so
there are fewer grapes per vine and hence less for the vine to mature, which is thought to
result in better quality. De-leafing is the removal of leaves around the fruit zone so the fruit
has sun directly on it, thought to aid the ripening.
'You can harvest half of the grapes when you harvest your dry white so you won't have to
waste them,' said Mr Ducasse, his eyebrows working overtime. 'And it's better because you
don't want to leave the grapes here on the ground as they will attract bad rot.'
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