Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The group consisted of the likes of Richard Doughty and Gérard Cuisset, people who had
initiated commune appellation status for the dessert wines of Saussignac. The wine had
been famous for centuries but did not have appellation status until 1982.
'Don't worry. We want you for your marketing ideas.'
This would be a good opportunity to get to know the other vignerons and to gain an un-
derstanding of the inside of the complex appellation system.
'What do I have to do?'
'
Enfin
, it's not too much. You participate in the meetings, help us make decisions and then
each person has a special portfolio.'
'What portfolio would you want me to take on?'
'I want you to be our representative on the Saussignac
syndicat d'initiative
. You'll be the
liaison between the
syndicat d'initiative
and the winemakers. It's a difficult post because
the
syndicat d'initiative
always want us to give more time than we can but I think you will
be good for it. Reflect on it and let me know.'
The
syndicat
was responsible for events and promotion of the general commune but wine
was often promoted through events, and the wine union and the
syndicat
ran a tourist office
in the village in high season.
'I don't need time to think about it, I'd love to join the group.'
I hung up and ran through to the lounge to share the news with Sean.
'That's a feather in your cap, Carolinus. Now you can agitate from the inside... and leave
me in peace.' He laughed and turned back to watching his television show. We only had
French channels and they were doing wonders for his language skills.
A few weeks later I joined a group of vignerons who were gathered outside the mayor's
office in Razac-de-Saussignac waiting for the appellation committee meeting. The topic of
conversation was the Asterix-and-Obelix-style village politics in Saussignac; a major fight
was brewing between the incumbent and the previous mayor. Blistering letters copied to all
the members of the commune flew back and forth. Not a day went by without another in-
stalment in the village scuffle for power. Joel, the wild vigneron, was particularly amused;
he had been in low-level combat with one of the parties for many years.
The meeting started with a review of the appellation union's finances then moved on to
the new decrees for the appellation. Significant reforms were under way across France.
Debates on minutiae ensued. Most consumers would never have heard of these points.
I felt like standing up and calling a halt. We were wasting time discussing things that
wouldn't make any difference to sales and would create administrative headaches for
already stretched growers. The final item on the agenda said it all: the INAO had reviewed
the appellation boundaries based on a high-level soil analysis. Four components make up
terroir but they had looked only at the soil. As important for botrytis is the microclimate.
For Saussignac, the grapes are best if located on north-facing land south of the Dordogne
river. The INAO had thrown out the old boundaries and made the new boundary the Route
