Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
They also operate the casual cafe Le Cen-
tral down the street, with its attached
gourmet food shop. Ever in search of new
horizons, Michel also has a restaurant at
the Hyatt Regency Tokyo (there's the Japa-
nese note again) and is developing an inn
farther out in the Roanne countryside. You
can't blame a chef this talented for want-
ing to do more than just take over the
family business—even when the family
business is something as remarkable as
the Hôtel-Restaurant Troisgros.
Place Jean Troisgros, Roanne (
&
33/4/
77-71-66-97;
www.troisgros.com).
(
Lyon (118km/73 miles).
Gourmet Inns & Resorts
77
Château Les Crayères
Champagne Tastes
Reims, France
Champagne is more than just a fizzy
drink—the very name epitomizes an
upper-crust lifestyle, and a way of doing
things with sybaritic panache. Perhaps the
ultimate expression of that Champagne
mindset is this country-manor hotel-res-
taurant just outside of the regional capital
of Reims. The cuisine here has always
been a magnet for the champagne barons
of the area, but these days the luxury
accommodations are an even greater
draw, earning Les Crayères a place on
several magazines' lists of “best hotel in
the world” over the past decade. It's an
essential stop for well-heeled wine tourists
from around the world.
The setting is drop-dead gorgeous, an
upscale
maison bourgeoise
(actually a mini-
château) dating from 1903, surrounded by a
5.6-hectare (14-acre) park. It's a showpiece
indeed, full of soaring ceilings, chandeliers,
elaborate moldings and wood paneling, gilt-
framed oil paintings and tapestries, marble
floors and pilasters, Art Nouveau wrought
iron, and richly patterned carpets, uphol-
stery, and draperies. Originally built for the
Marquis and Marchioness of Polignac and
associated with the Pommery champagne
estate, the chateau became a luxury hotel in
1983. Renowned local chef Gérard Boyer
was persuaded to transfer his esteemed
restaurant La Chaumière onto the site as
well, and Relais & Châteaux soon snapped
up the property.
Les Crayères's 16 guest rooms, some in
the château and others in cottages around
the lushly landscaped grounds, are indi-
vidually decorated in lavish French provin-
cial style—expect lots of toile-patterned
fabrics and brocades, eclectic artwork,
and overstuffed armchairs and sofas. Spa-
cious and crammed with all modern ame-
nities (including air-conditioning, not
always a given in France), they're top-of-
the-line lodgings indeed.
The dining salon's Belle Epoque ele-
gance perfectly matches the classical
French cuisine. Current chef Didier Elena,
an Alain Ducasse protégé, has been work-
ing wonders here. Launch your meal with
ravioli stuffed with escargots or sample an
appetizer of three different preparations
of foie gras. A Bresse chicken breast
comes delicately interlarded with ham and
black truffles; the spring lamb is accompa-
nied by a luscious eggplant-Parmesan per-
sillade. The wild turbot and the grilled
lobster are ineffably delicate, and the roast
duck with honey vinegar sauce is an earthy
regional delight. Among the prix-fixe
menus you'll find a special Tradition De
Champagne seven-course tasting menu
