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moderately priced, friendly, art-filled cafe in residential Uptown. Upperline's chef
Ken Smith can hold his own against celebrity chefs like Paul Prudhomme and Emeril
Lagasse; try the roast duck, the lamb shank, the cane river country shrimp, or the
fried green tomatoes appetizer with shrimp rémoulade sauce (invented here and
now copied all over town). Also Uptown, you'll see lines outside waiting for a table
at funky, colorful Jacques Imo ( 8324 Oak St.; & 504/861-0886; www.jacques
imoscafe.com), a great place to try Big Easy dishes like shrimp Creole, catfish stuffed
with crabmeat, or fried chicken (from a recipe by
the late Austin Leslie). Way out at the end of St.
Charles, the Camellia Grill (626 S. Carrollton
Ave.; & 504/309-2679 ) has been around since
1946, save for 18 anxious months after Hurri-
cane Katrina struck; you may have to wait for a
stool at the counter, especially at breakfast—
Camellia's immense, luscious omelets and pecan
waffles are beloved. At lunchtime, their big,
sloppy burgers are wonderful (especially the
patty melt), followed by the celebrated choco-
late pecan pie.
Or head out Canal Street to Mid-City for two
neighborhood favorites whose post-Katrina ris-
ing from the ashes became symbols of New
Orleans's recovery. Reborn in the same pink-
frame house it has been in for 50 years, congenial Mandina's (3800 Canal St.;
& 504/482-9179; www.mandinasrestaurant.com) serves an Italian-Creole menu
starring classics such as shrimp rémoulade, trout meunière, and the best turtle soup
in town; come here Monday for traditional red-beans-and-rice dinner. Though it's
only open 11am to 3pm, Willie Mae's Scotch House (2401 Saint Ann St.;
& 504/822-9503 ) is worth a daytime trip; this humble white-clapboard corner cafe
is a showcase for Southern comfort foods, including a secret-recipe fried chicken
certified as an American classic by the James Beard Association.
( Louis Armstrong New Orleans Intl (15 miles/24km).
Herbsaint takes its name from a locally
made pastis.
L Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St. ( & 800/THE-OMNI [800/843-6664] or 504/529-
5333; www.omniroyalorleans.com). Hotel Monteleone ( & 800/535-9595 or 504/523-3341;
www.hotelmonteleone.com).
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