Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Baker's Best
474
Sampling Sacher Torte
Princely Pastry
Vienna, Austria
In 1832, a 16-year-old Austrian pastry
apprentice named Franz Sacher, covering
for his sick boss, was ordered to create a
special dessert for powerful Prince Metter-
nich. The youngster threw together a dense
chocolate sponge cake, layered apricot jam
on top, then sheathed it in dark chocolate
icing, sprinkled with shredded chocolate
and served with whipped cream (
mit
Schlagobers
). The prince loved it, of course;
Franz Sacher's career was made.
In this pastry-obsessed nation, it's no
surprise that Franz Sacher's creation, the
Sacher torte, is still revered today. The
elegant
Hotel Sacher Wien
(Philharmoni-
kerstrasse 4;
&
01/514560;
www.sacher.
com), founded by Sacher's son, promi-
nently features Sacher torte in its bro-
caded jewel box of a cafe. The cakes are
sold in wooden gift boxes at the pastry
shop inside the hotel, as well as at the sis-
ter hotel in Salzburg (Schwarzstrasse 5-7;
&
43/662/88 977 0
) and in Sacher cafes in
Innsbruck (Rennweg 1;
&
43/512/56 56
26) and Graz (Herrengasse 6;
&
43/316/
8005 0). You can even order it for ship-
ment overseas (
&
43/1/51 456 861; www.
sacher.com); a molded chocolate seal on
the icing certifies an
echt
Sacher torte.
The Hotel Sacher naturally trademarked
that cake, and it was embroiled for years in
litigation against another Vienna land-
mark, the splendidly baroque
Café Demel
(Kohlmarkt 14;
&
43/1/5351717
), for call-
ing its own superb version “original”
Sacher torte. (They differ in the location of
the apricot jam layer.) But just about every
one of Vienna's classic coffeehouses and
cafes serves some version of Sacher
torte—always, of course, with
Schlagobers
.
The bitter chocolate, the slightly dry and
not overly sweet cake, often surprise
those who prefer their desserts sugary
and moist, but the Viennese consider it
pastry perfection.
Between St. Stephen's and the State
Opera, try the cake at
Gerstner
(Kärntner-
strasse 11-15,
&
43/1/512-49360
), one of
Vienna's top confectioners since 1847.
Across from the Hofburg, Sacher torte is
served at
Café Central
(Herrengasse 14,
&
43/1/5333764
), with its grand neo-
Gothic entrance and vaulted interior, a
famous 19th-century hangout for Austria's
intellectual elite. Opened in its prime Ring
location in 1873, the well-burnished Art
Nouveau
Café Landtmann
(Dr.-Karl-Lue-
ger-Ring 4;
&
43/1/241000
) has served
Sacher torte to a celebrity clientele since
the days of Sigmund Freud. Near the
MUMOK modern art museum, you can get
a slice of Sacher torte at cozy wood-pan-
eled
Café Sperl
(Gumpendorferstrasse 11;
&
43/1/5864158
), which hasn't changed
since it opened in 1880. Or if you're out
visiting Schönbrunn Castle, try the Sacher
torte at nearby
Café Dommayer
(Auhofstrasse 2;
&
43/1/8775465
), a high-
ceilinged black-and-white 18th-century
salon where Johann Strauss, Jr., made his
musical debut in 1844. Sacher torte may
well have been served that evening too—
who knows?
(
Vienna International (22km/14 miles).
L
$$$
Hotel Sacher Wien,
Philhar-
monikerstrasse 4 (
&
43/1/514560;
www.
sacher.com). $
Hotel Kärntnerhof,
Grashofgasse 4 (
&
43/1/5121923;
www.
karntnerhof.com).
