Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
7
Places to Eat in . . . Istanbul, Turkey
Straddling Asia and Europe across the Bosporus strait, the great, glorious hodge-
podge of cultures that is Istanbul by all rights should be one of the great dining cities
of the world. Yet too many visitors remain stuck in the Sultanahmet area, hewing
close to the Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque, the Ayasofya museum, and the Grand
Bazaar; compelling as those attractions are, the cafes in that area seem bent on
gouging tourists with high prices, aggressive come-ons, and mediocre food. It's a
shame, really, because once you venture farther afield, you'll discover all the savory
nuances that make Turkish food so delicious.
Out in the foothills of Edirnekapi, next to the St. Saviour in Chora church, the
Kariye Hotel's
Asitane
(Kariye Camii Sok. 18;
&
90/212/534-8414;
www.asitane
restaurant.com) features one of the world's earliest fusion menus—painstakingly
researched recipes that were once served at the Ottoman court to sultans like
Mehmet the Conqueror and Suleiman the Magnificent. This imperial blending of
Arabic, Greek, Persian, and North African influences results in luscious dishes like
eggplant stuffed with grilled quail; spring chicken stewed with almonds, dried
apricots, grapes, honey, and cinnamon; or
nirbach,
a diced lamb, meatball, carrot,
and walnut stew spiced with coriander, ginger, cinnamon, and pomegranate
syrup. Don't expect hokey faux-historic decor—Asitane's tasteful gold-and-white
look is restrained and modern, throwing the emphasis squarely where it should be:
on the food itself. Similar recipes have been updated at
Feriye
(Çiragan Cad.
Stuffed quince and
mutanjene
at Asitane.
