Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
When the park is closed, October through April, Cunningham travels the world gath-
ering new ideas.
For a much more down-to-earth Tivoli experience, try the hearty Danish fare at
Færgekroen Bryghus (Vesterbrogade 3; & 45/33/12-94-12; www.faergekroen.
dk), a pink half-timbered cottage in a lakeside setting.
Even here there's innovation, with two fine house beers
produced in the gleaming vats of a new on-site micro-
brewery. The food is what you might expect from a
local farm—Wiener schnitzel, braised lamb shank, fried
plaice with melted butter, and a range of smørrebrød
open-faced sandwiches—served in a convivial setting
with live music most evenings. If beer is your thing, also
head out to the Nørrebro district's Nørrebro Bry-
ghus (Ryesgade 3; & 45/35/30-05-30; www.norrebro
bryghus.dk), which sprawls over two floors of a con-
verted 19th-century metal foundry. You can sample 10
different beers brewed on premises as well as several
dishes braised, fried, or stewed in beer—things like
crisp-fried whitefish served with roasted fennel in
Pacific Pale Ale, or poached filet of beef served with
snow peas, baby carrots, and green beans, under a
sage sauce flavored with La Granja Stout. Reserve a
seat at the “brew master's table” for a special set
menu.
You can't leave Copenhagen without trying some
smørrebrød —but the open-faced sandwiches at
designer-sleek Aamanns (Oster Farimagsgade 10,
& 45/35/55-33-44; www.aamanns.dk) are smørrebrød as you've never known it
before. You can scarcely get a seat in this small, hip cafe at mealtime, where crowds
dine on these miniature works of art—smoked fish and meat precisely sliced onto
superbly fresh rye bread, then topped with creamy medallions of cheese and crisp,
flavorful vegetables. Luckily, they also do takeout.
( Copenhagen Kastrup Airport (70km/43miles).
Noma's vegetable field with malt
soil and herbs.
L $$$ Kong Frederik, Vester Voldgade 25 ( & 800/448-8355 in the U.S., or 45/33/12-59-
02; www.remmen.dk). $ Copenhagen Crown Hotel, Vesterbrogade 41 ( & 45/33/21-21-66;
www.profilhotels.dk).
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