Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
biggest winery used to be a big fish in a
small pond; even now that the country's
wines have become so popular, Montana
has grown to become the country's cham-
pion brand. Its wines have achieved cult
status around the world, particularly its
herbal and aromatic Sauvignon Blanc.
Montana still produces 70% of New Zea-
land's output; it has vineyards dotted
around the country, including Gisborne and
Hawkes Bay. The heart of its operation,
however, is in the verdant nucleus of Kiwi
winemaking, coastal Wairau Valley on the
South Island's northern end. Along the
calm blue waters of Marlborough Sound,
popular with sailors and vacationers, white
foamy tides buff low cliffs crowned with
green hedges and vineyards. The vast
green plain of Wairau Valley spreads west
of the region's laid-back town of Blenheim.
Traditionally farmland, in the past 30
years this area has replaced sheep and cow
pastures with tidy lines of vineyards veiled
with white silklike bird netting. Montana
resembles a rustic French château more
than a New World winery, with its tall, steep
roof and tower covering a handsome cream-
colored building facing onto an expansive
lawn. Yet as you approach it from the stone
gateway, you realize that this is a very mod-
ern operation. Inside you'll find a slick visitor
center with tasting rooms, a wine store, and
a small theater; the on-site restaurant serves
excellent seafood, such as mussels and
salmon farmed along the coast. There is
even a wine-themed children's playground.
Open fireplaces built with river stones are
scattered about to warm your toes in the
cold season.
Speaking of cold, Montana has a big
problem with frost. A late freeze in spring
can destroy the harvest before it has even
begun. Giant wind machines dot the land-
scape to create wind circulation that can
raise the temperature and save the vine.
On very cold nights, wineries in the area
hire up to 100 helicopters to fly over the
vines and beat off Jack Frost. Such high-
tech winemaking is reflected in the winery,
with its ultramodern
coquard
press. The
only instrument of its kind in the Southern
Hemisphere, this specially designed
French grape crusher ensures a cleaner,
fruitier juice. Montana also has invested in
novel grape tipper tanks that you will not
see anywhere else.
Montana is a popular stop on the tourist
circuit, so expect crowds, especially in
the high season. While you're here, try a
little whale-watching in Marlborough
Bay—that way you can see two big fish in
one pond.
Montana Winery,
RD4, Blenheim
(
&
64/9/3368300;
www.montana.co.nz).
(
Christchurch (311km/193 miles).
L
$$
Marlborough Vintners Hotel,
190 Rapaura Rd. (
&
64/3/572-5094;
www.
mvh.co.nz). $$
Château Marlborough,
High and Henry Sts. (
&
64/3/578-0064;
www.marlboroughnz.co.nz).
Southern Hemisphere
374
Two Paddocks
Hidden Drama
Central Otago, New Zealand
Central Otago's landscape is certainly dra-
matic—dark forests and imposing moors,
surrounded by snowcapped mountains
and jagged creeks. Famous for old hiking
trails, ski resorts, and abandoned gold
mines, this part of the South Island is the
last place you'd expect to find wine coun-
try. All the same, there are some 80 winer-
ies in the area, all producing first-class
Pinot Noir.
On first glance, though, Two Paddocks is
one of the area's least dramatic wineries. A
