Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
(
Neuquén (53km/32 miles).
Costa Limay,
Baschman 269, Plottier
(
&
54/299/493-6832;
www.hotelcosta
limay.com.ar).
L
$$
Hotel del Comahue,
Avda Argen-
tina 377, Neuquén (
&
54/299/443-2040;
www.hoteldelcomahue.com). $$
Hotel
South America
353
Colomé
Cactus & Vineyards
Salta, Argentina
The tiny wine town of Cafayate has its own
distinct colors—pink dust, red hills, and
olive-green mountains. Corn-yellow sand
gathers along the curbstones of this sun-
kissed village, while gray donkeys graze
on the central plaza. Heaps of unlocked
bicycles stand outside schools and the
coffee-colored cathedral. Add to this some
lovely baronial wineries, luxury lodges,
excellent arts and crafts, and stunning
vineyard country producing the aromatic
white Torrontes grape—and you can see
why this area is becoming known as the
Tuscany of Argentina.
Colomé is the newest edition to Salta's
ever-increasing list of wineries. Located 4
hours over bumpy, unpaved roads from
either Cafayate or Salta city, it fits in nicely
with owner Donald Hess's penchant for
building art-gallery wineries in far-flung,
isolated places. The scenery is spectacu-
lar, with giant cacti giving a three-fingered
salute amid vineyards and multicolored
mountains. As you approach the winery,
you pass the ancient village of Molinos,
which has been virtually adopted by the
winery—Hess not only employs the local
population, he has built the village a new
church and community center.
Neat, stone-lined roads lead to a low
cream-colored colonial-style building with
a long gallery of arches, an upscale lodge
and restaurant catering to guests who
want to escape from it all. (In fact, getting
here requires such a long dusty drive, it's
best to stay overnight in the area.) The
restaurant produces some of Argentina's
best cuisine—no small achievement con-
sidering the excellent restaurants of Bue-
nos Aires. There is a helicopter pad for
high rollers, and talk of a private landing
strip for airplanes.
These are biodynamic vineyards, pro-
ducing high-octane Malbec and Torrontes
grapes. At over 2,000m (6,500 ft.) altitude,
they are also some of the highest in the
world. The winery itself—designed to be
totally energy efficient—is situated away
from the main lodge complex, in a stark,
modern building with a stylish design that
fits well with the owner's collection of
thought-provoking art.
Some people might think it strange that
a world-class art collection should be gath-
ered in such an isolated place, in a region
that looks and feels more like Bolivia than
any other part of Argentina. Yet with the
backdrop of that dazzling scenery, an
award-winning art gallery may be just
what it needs. It certainly has breathed life
into a community.
Bodega Colomé,
Ruta Provincial 53,
Molinos (
&
54/3868-494044;
www.bodega
colome.com).
(
Salta (222km/138 miles).
L
$$$
Patios de Cafayate,
Ruta
Nacional 40 at Ruta Provincial 68, Cafayate
(
&
54/3868/421747;
www.luxurycollection.
com/Cafayate). $$
Hostal Killa,
Colon 47,
Cafayate (
&
54/3868/422-254;
www.
hostalkillacafayate.nortevirtual.com).
