Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
giant dice rolling through the grounds.
With its sharp corners, this bizarre little
structure is meant to symbolize the sharp
robustness of the Cerretto wines. Else-
where in the vineyards sits a delightful
multicolored chapel that looks like a chil-
dren's playground castle. The whole effect
is utterly charming.
In the tasting room you can sample the
perfumed and velvety Barolo wines, while
truffles reappear as thin slivers placed
over fried eggs. The smell is distinctive
and arresting, pungent and earthy, and
they taste like a mixture of garlic and
mushroom. You learn that truffles are also
considered an aphrodisiac—all the more
reason to enjoy them with such a sensu-
ous wine.
Cerretto,
Strada Provincial Alba/
Barolo, Localita San Cassiano 34, Alba
(
&
39/173/282-582;
www.ceretto.com).
(
Turin (82km/52 miles).
L
$$$
Hotel Castello di Sinio,
1
Vicolo del Castello, Sinio (
&
39/173/263-
889;
www.hotelcastellodisinio.com). $$
Ca del Lupo,
Via Ballerina 15, Montelupo
Albese, (
&
39/173/617-045;
www.cadel
lupo.it).
Italy
338
Fontanafredda
The King of Grapes
Piedmont, Italy
The lifespan of a vine is very much like a
human being's. At less than 10 years old, it
is too young to be taken seriously but
requires lots of love, care, and attention.
In the teenage years, it is young and
robust but not fully formed, producing
wine that is shy and awkward. Then it hits
its prime as it reaches 30—rounded,
enthusiastic, and full of energy. This is the
age when a vine creates grapes that pair
well with another grape in a harmonious
blend. After 40 the vine slowly mellows, its
grapes becoming more complex and
sophisticated. After 60, it loses some abili-
ties but remains an expert in others—it
produces less wine but it is rich and con-
centrated and full of wisdom.
King Victor Emmanuel II may have been
the first king of Italy, but he also regarded
himself as lord and master of a rather large
population of grapes. His 100-hectare (247-
acre) estate called Fontannafredda is a pri-
vate Piedmont village populated with every
grape age bracket. This beautiful hamlet is
now one of Italy's most famous wineries. It
appears on a hilltop like a magical castle,
surrounded by a picturesque wine country
of contoured hills and rounded ridges. Tall
mansions with trellised eaves hold wrought-
iron balconies overlooking cobbled streets.
Here the King built opulent Villa Contessa
Rosa for his mistress; modern-day guests
can sleep in its simple, comfortable rooms
and immerse themselves completely in the
world of royal wine.
Guests have the run of this beautiful
estate, which has its own church, park,
and lake. Below ground, long narrow tun-
nels lead to cathedral-like cellars with
giant casks.
The surrounding countryside is perfect
for wandering, dropping into numerous
caves and cellars to try the local wine.
Piedmont itself is a foodie's paradise with
the aromas of local delicacies such as
white truffle and veal roast wafting from
the regions finest restaurants.
Around 500 growers in the area still
contribute their grapes to the estate's
wine in a tradition that goes back to the
time of the king. Grapes such as Nebbiolo
and Barbera, ingredients of the famous
