Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
7 Places to Eat in . . . Rome
Like any major European capital, Rome has its share of three-star gourmet shrines
and trendy bistros, but the essence of Roman cuisine is the sort of simple, robust
peasant fare that doesn't necessarily register on the foodie radar. With Rome's mul-
tifaceted cultural and historical offerings, few people come here exclusively for the
food. Many restaurants can coast on the tourist trade and turn a profit despite
mediocre fare, rude service, and jacked-up prices, and so it can be tricky to find
genuine cucina Romana —though the real deal is soul-satisfying indeed.
Hunt around in the narrow street behind the Trevi
Fountain for Al Moro (Vicolo delle Bollette 131;
& 39/6-6783495 ), a slightly dowdy family trattoria that
has drawn discriminating locals, including Frederico
Fellini and his compagnos, since 1929. It's worth endur-
ing the gruff patrone and exclusive regulars to sample
such authentic specialties as the crispy roast baby goat
flavored with fresh rosemary, the spaghetti Al Moro (aka
carbonara, which they claim to have invented here), or a
fork-tender milk-fed lamb stewed with fresh tomatoes.
On a secluded square in the historic Jewish ghetto area,
the classic place to enjoy a deep-fried artichoke (referred
to as carciofi alla Giudeca, or artichokes Jewish-style) is
family owned Piperno (Via Monte de'Cenci 9; & 39/
6/68806629; www.ristorantepiperno.com), a mellow
taverna that has been around since 1856. Along with the
crispy fried artichokes and the fritto misto vegetariano (a
sampler of Jewish-style artichokes, cheese-and-rice
croquettes, mozzarella, and stuffed squash blossoms),
Piperno serves delicious hearty pastas (the mellow gnoc-
chetti alla matriciana is a specialty), seafood, and veal dishes.
Near Piazza Navona, acclaimed Il Convivio (Vicolo dei Soldati 31; & 39/
6/6869432; www.ilconviviotroiani.com), a chic white dining room in a beautiful 16th-
century building, is known for its market-inspired modern cooking. Seasonally
changing menu items might include caramelized tuna with chestnut honey, ginger,
green pepper, rosemary, and green apple purée, or tagliatelle with a white pork
ragout, wild asparagus, and ginger. Yet even at this high-end restaurant you can find
some touches of classic cucina Romana, like the salt cod with tomato confit, olives,
and artichokes. For a more casual and less expensive meal in the same area, there's
always Pizzeria Baffetto (Via del Governo Vecchio 114; & 39/6/6861617 ), a
bustling, eternally popular no-frills spot in a scruffy-looking corner building (you'll
Checchino dal 1887 has been
serving visceral Roman cuisine
for more than a century.
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