Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
to check out the gorgeous architecture
and even more gorgeous wines, the gates
are firmly shut—no visits allowed without
2 weeks notice and a letter of introduction
from your wine importer and his mother.
Medieval indeed.
One winery that has opened its shutters
and polished off some wineglasses is the
phenomenally successful Château Lynch-
Bages. Situated at the gates of the port
town of Pauillac, this handsome château
has 90 hectares (223 acres) of vineyards
on a gentle slope lapped by the tides of
the river estuary. Away from the main
building, a photogenic small 18th-century
structure with a double roof sits amid the
vines. In a charming 19th-century vat
room, huge oak vats sit on white plinths in
a wooden-framed store room. Bare timber
rafters and beams morph into a sturdy
modern structure with stainless-steel
tanks sitting on brick foundations. But as
you take a thorough tour of the bottling
line and bottle-stacked cellars, you realize
that the classical facade hides a modern,
high-tech operation. And the winery is
refurbishing the quaint, abandoned ham-
let of Bages nearby, installing a brasserie,
boulangerie, and wine store.
In the winery's tasting room, friendly
pourers guide you through a sampling of
their excellent Cabernet Sauvignon and
Merlot blends. The winery also houses a
wine school, which conducts fascinating
classes on blending and the region's vari-
ous terroirs . There is an art gallery to
wander through while sipping your wine;
special events have been planned, such as
a Christmas-season tasting of roasted
chestnuts and mulled wine.
Perhaps inspired by Château Lynch-
Bages, other châteaux are now following
suit and receiving visitors (contact the
tourism office in Bordeaux for a list). The
town of Pauillac's tourism center conducts
free tastings, and Bordeaux's fascinating
Musée des Chartrons museum celebrates
the region's wine merchants.
You swirl your glass and muse that
Bordeaux, just like this wine, is finally
opening up.
Château Lynch-Bages, Pauillac ( & 33/
5/5673-2400; www.lynchbages.com).
( Bordeaux-Mérignac Airport (42km/26
miles).
L $$ Hotel Château Beau Jardin, 50
Route de Soulac, Gaillan-en-Medoc ( & 33/
5/5641-2683; www.chateaubeaujardin.
com). $ Hotel de France, 7 rue Franklin,
Bordeaux City ( & 33/5/5648-2411; www.
hotel-france-bordeaux.fr).
The Château Lynch-Bages in Bordeaux wel-
comes visitors—a rare custom in the region.
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