Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
like “tasting the stars.” Years of trial and
error followed; only with the introduction
of stronger bottles and corks did the
monks finally succeed in controlling the
second fermentation in the bottle and
thus the bubbles. The first champagne
house opened in 1729, and its product
became instantly popular with European
royalty. Many years later, we now associ-
ate the word “champagne” less with the
region and more with the liquid that has
popped and fizzed its way through 2 cen-
turies of parties, and doused many a jubi-
lant Grand Prix race winner.
The Formula One of champagne has to
be G. H. Mumm. This gorgeous winery is
situated in the old Roman city of Reims, 4
blocks from the famous cathedral where
French kings were crowned. Giant golden
letters declare the winery's name on a tidy
set of railings in front of a palatial mansion.
A chic, classical courtyard with stone
benches and sculpted hedges leads to
immaculate reception rooms with marble
walls, elegant wood paneling, and red
leather sofas. The champagne house
undoubtedly offers the best tours in the
region, starting in the mammoth system of
tunnels that burrow through the region's
distinguishing chalk clay. Some of the
caves are big enough to hold a banquet
(and often do). One wide underground
thoroughfare houses a pristine museum
with illuminated display cases and ancient
winemaking instruments. Farther into the
bowels of the complex are vaulted walk-
ways holding 25 million bottles, many still
on the racks with their bottoms pointed
upward as they go through the meticulous
process of turning and settling.
You have a choice of three different
tours, which are all basically the same—
except that the best one ends in a triple
tasting of Mumm's distinctive red-striped
label Cordon Rouge. The facility is a major
draw during the summer high season; you'll
probably find yourself rubbing shoulders
with other curious tourists unless you visit
in the cold winter months. The champagne
process is fascinating to learn about, and
the guides here are very knowledgeable.
You'll learn, for example, that you judge
bubbly by the size of its bubbles, and those
that stick to the side of a flute are a sign of
dirty glassware—an interesting fact to
know for your next dinner party.
G. H. Mumm,
34 rue de Champ de Mars
(
&
33/3/2649-5970;
www.mumm.com).
(
Reims (29km/18 miles).
L
$$$
Château Les Crayeres,
64
blvd. Henry Vasnier (
&
33/3/2682-8080;
www.lescrayeres.com). $$$
Best West-
ern Hôtel de la Paix,
9 rue Buirette
(
&
33/3/2640-0408;
www.bestwestern-
lapaix-reims.com).
France
313
Taittinger
Enlightenment
Champagne, France
The history of the Taittinger family unfurls
like a well-played game of chess. One of
France's foremost business dynasties, they
originally hailed from Lorraine but had to
beat a hasty retreat after the Franco-Prus-
sian war in 1870. The Taittingers sacrificed
a castle and took refuge in Paris, where
they entered the wine trade. A tumultuous
19th century saw the family adapt defen-
sive tactics to ward off revolution, riots, and
vine disease. Miraculously they dodged the
onslaught and captured a couple of pieces
