Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
7
Places to Eat in . . . Portland, Oregon
Portland seems to have it all—a vigorous local wine industry, great microbreweries,
local farmers committed to sustainable agriculture, and a critical mass of talented
chefs who love Portland's laidback lifestyle too much to be lured elsewhere. It just
isn't fair.
Portland's leading restaurants were well ahead of the curve in America when it
came to cooking with local, seasonal ingredients. Even restaurants that have been
around for more than a decade hardly seem to fit the label “old guard.” They cer-
tainly aren't stuffy—just look at downtown's
Higgins
(1239 SW Broadway;
&
503/222-9070;
www.higgins.ypguides.net), where the tri-level layout and open
kitchen nicely loosen up the clubby wood-paneled decor. Whipping out a constantly
changing menu from that open kitchen, chef-owner Greg Higgins brings subtle new
flavors into play with familiar classics, as in a honey-and-chili-glazed pork loin; a saf-
fron-and-fennel stew of prawns, mussels, calamari, and halibut; or the “whole pig
plate” composed of various pork cuts, roasted or braised, served with sausage,
baked beans, and braised greens. Another top choice is
Paley's Place
(1204 NW
21st Ave.;
&
503/243-2403;
www.
paleysplace.net), a small, bustling din-
ing room in Nob Hill, in a charming Vic-
torian house with a front porch often
stacked with baskets of local organic
produce. Chef-owner Vitaly Paley uses
them to interject fresh accents into
traditional bistro fare such as spit-
roasted suckling pig, corn-and-crab
risotto, or superb sweetbreads with
Paley's crisp signature fries. The stand-
out Italian restaurant in Portland has
long been discreetly elegant
Genoa
(2832 SE Belmont St.;
&
503/238-1464;
www.genoarestaurant.com), where the
handful of linen-draped tables are much
in demand for romantic occasions. Service is attentive, and while the prix-fixe menu
changes every 3 weeks, you can count on an intriguing interplay of robust flavors:
sweet onion and Gorgonzola ravioli with walnut pesto and African pepper; grilled ono
with Taggiasca olives, potatoes, and orange; or duck breast with a port wine-and-
peppercorn sauce.
Younger Portland chefs are bringing their A-game to the table, too. In southeast
Portland, right across the Willamette from downtown,
Cured meats from Higgins in downtown Portland.
Le Pigeon
(738 E. Burnside
