Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
simplicity; a map collection hangs on the
wall and a stone fireplace takes the chill
out of the autumn air. However, the main
attraction is tasting wine while seated in
wicker chairs on the veranda—make sure
to bring a camera to capture the view.
You'll see a flower garden in the fore-
ground, hillsides of well-combed organic
vineyards, and hawks and turkey buzzards
circling overhead. A glass of delicious mer-
lot completes the picture.
Say cheese.
Snap.
Perfect.
Arrowood Vineyards,
14347 Sonoma
Hwy., Glen Ellen (
&
707/935-2600;
www.
arrowoodvineyards.com).
(
San Francisco International (71 miles/
114km).
L
$$$
MacArthur Place,
29 E. MacAr-
thur St., Sonoma (
&
707/938-2929;
www.
macarthurplace.com). $$
Relais du Soleil,
1210 Nuns Canyon Rd., Glen Ellen (
&
707/
833-6264;
www.relaisdusoleil.com).
West Coast U.S.
287
Benziger Family Winery
The Biodynamic Bandwagon
Sonoma, California
A big red tractor pulls you on an open car-
riage through tidy roads that meander
between gorgeous vineyards. Up and over
idyllic green hills it carries you, with wild-
flowers bordering wooden fences on
either side. Nature is let run in all its glory.
The 45-minute ride is embracing and exhil-
arating (blankets are supplied in the chilly
winter months); it may even tempt you
to give up the city job and take up farm-
ing. Benziger Family Winery is in fact a
working farm, set in a sprawling estate in a
pastoral paradise. It is serene, tranquil,
and unpretentious.
In recent years a quiet revolution has
been taking place in California wine coun-
try. Vineyards have always looked beautiful
from a distance, but conventional wisdom
dictated they should be a controlled, bar-
ren monoculture. Unpleasant chemicals
such as pesticides, insecticides, and fungi-
cides were used to keep nature at arms'
length. Unfortunately, this played havoc
with the natural ecosystem, encouraging
soil erosion and water waste. The organic
movement wagged a green finger at these
bad practices, and many winemakers
began experimenting with sustainable vine-
yard management. They realized that there
was a better way of doing things—and
guess what? It results in better wine.
Benziger is at the forefront of this green
revolution. As you tour the 85-acre
(34-hectare) estate in Glen Ellen, the guide
points out that weeds, flowers, and birds
are actually encouraged. Unwanted
insects are fended off with wasps and
owls. Wetlands have been constructed to
save water and encourage biodiversity.
Solar-powered pumps and parking lights
keep down carbon emissions, as does the
biofuel that runs the red tractor.
When you enter Benziger's tasting
room, you will see the fruit of their labor. A
trellised walkway leads to a beautiful white
clapboard house with gray shutters,
