Travel Reference
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A short drive farther north, St. Helena brims with small-town charm, great shop-
ping, and fine food. At high-end Terra (1345 Railroad Ave.; & 707/963-8931;
www.terrarestaurant.com), East meets West in a romantic fieldstone-walled dining
room where Japanese chef Hiro Sone serves Asian-inspired dishes featuring Califor-
nia's agricultural bounty: broiled sake-marinated cod with shrimp dumplings and
shiso broth, or grilled quail with bacon bread pudding, sautéed foie gras, figs, and
vin cotto sauce. On a humbler scale, the gourmet burger shack Taylor's Auto-
matic Refresher (933 Main St.; & 707/963-3486; www.taylorsrefresher.com) has
been around since 1949. Taylor's updated diner menu—ahi tuna burgers, tacos,
salads, and classic shakes—draws huge lines of tourists, who love ordering at the
counter or feasting alfresco at picnic tables.
At the top of the valley, the hot-springs spa town Calistoga still has a sort of
scroungy Wild West appeal. Right on the main street, the All Seasons Café
(1400 Lincoln Ave.; & 707/942-9111; www.allseasonsnapavalley.net) maintains the
laid-back aura of a wine bar. Dishes include crispy skin chicken with black truffle
chicken jus or cornmeal-crusted diver scallops with summer vegetable succotash.
The wine shop next door supports the bistro's wine list, which is impressive—
because, after all, this is Napa Valley.
( San Francisco International (75 miles/121km).
L $$$ Cedar Gables Inn, 486 Coombs St., Napa ( & 800/309-7969 or 707/224-7969;
www.cedargablesinn.com). $$ Calistoga Spa Hot Springs, 1006 Washington St., Calistoga
( & 866/822-5772 or 707/942-6269; www.calistogaspa.com).
Thomas Keller's French Laundry is a destination unto itself.
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