Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
West Coast U.S.
276
Beringer Vineyards
Welcome to Napa!
Napa Valley, California
An elm-lined avenue carries you through a
215-acre (87-hectare) estate of sculpted
gardens, manicured lawns, and elaborate
fountains, up to an ornate Victorian man-
sion. Slated roof turrets crown magnifi-
cent stonework, which in turn frames
beautiful stained-glass windows. “Clark
Gable graced these gables!” enthuses the
guide—and you can well believe it. With
its walnut furniture and Art Nouveau wood
paneling inside, the mansion exudes old-
world charm, fit for a star of the silver
screen.
Situated more than halfway up lush
green Napa Valley, this classic winery is
the oldest and most historical, and argu-
ably the most beautiful, estate in the
region. It attracts huge crowds, and is
even besieged from above by hot-air bal-
loonists. You cannot help wishing you had
the place to yourself. You cannot help
wishing you owned it.
Beringer was founded by two German
brothers in 1868, and it's easy to assume
that these lucky fellows were simply in the
right place at the right time. But the win-
ery's history is as rocky as its vineyard soil;
its splendid existence today was never
assured. A 19th-century wine glut and
problems with transport set the winery off
to a shaky start; next came negative per-
ceptions about American wine, along with
the vine root disease phylloxera. In the
1920s, Prohibition seemed the final nail in
the coffin.
But Beringer survived and thrived (they
sidestepped the alcohol ban by producing
sacramental wine). A gravity-driven facility
was created, with 1,200 feet (360m) of
hand-chiseled tunnels extending into the
hillside to contain much of the industrial
portion of the concern. No longer a family
affair, the Beringer business now includes
20 wineries; there are two main visitor
buildings on the sprawling estate, as well
as a reconstructed carriage house and a
culinary arts center.
Always a leader, Beringer was the first
in Napa Valley to conduct tours (way back
in 1934) and tastings (in 1956). Visitors can
choose between a free, self-guided tour
that is somewhat restricted, or a more
expensive tour that takes you into the
caves and cellars; the pricier tour includes
a private tasting in a beautiful upstairs
room, which is much more relaxing than
the crowded barlike tasting room down
below. Barrel tastings are also offered, as
are wine and cheese pairings. If you are
feeling adventurous, try the white Zinfan-
del. Or for a taste of the wine that has
made the vineyard famous try the highly
regarded Private Reserve Chardonnay.
Beringer is such a popular winery for
visitors, you may have to contend with
crowds and screaming babies—but never
fear, the place is so big, there is always
plenty of room for escape. Wandering
around those lawns, under those shade
trees—that's the most memorable part of
this winery tour.
Beringer,
2000 Main St., St. Helena
(
&
707/967-4412;
www.beringer.com).
(
San Francisco International (77 miles/
124km).
L
$$$
Meadowood Napa Valley,
900 Meadowood Lane, St. Helena (
&
707/
963-3646;
www.meadowood.com). $$$
Harvest Inn,
1 Main St., St. Helena (
&
707/
963-9463;
www.harvestinn.com).
