Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
7
7
Places to Eat in . . . Kansas City
It was never hard to find an excellent steak in Kansas City. What's changed in the past
few years, however, is that talented homegrown chefs are actually returning here,
once they've finished traveling and cooking abroad, to interpret KC's heart-of-the-
country honesty in refreshing new ways.
For more than 25 years, the city could boast one outstanding special-occasion
restaurant:
The American Restaurant
(200 E. 25th St., Kansas City, Missouri;
&
816/545-8001;
www.theamericankc.com), in Hallmark Cards' centerpiece-of-
downtown headquarters, Crown Center, has an impressive wine cellar and a
regional-fare menu originally developed by James Beard and Joe Baum. The Ameri-
can not only has a stunning glass-walled skyline view, it has kept its prix-fixe menu
worthy of that view, with dishes such as olive-oil poached halibut, lamb T-bone, or
crispy veal breast complemented by seasonal sides like heirloom tomatoes, micro-
greens, artichoke puree, or locally made prosciutto or foie gras. But talk about soap
operas! When chef Debbie Gold left with her husband, Michael Smith, to open a
vibrant new place called 40 Sardines, the American was given worthy competition at
last. The couple divorced in 2007, and 40 Sardines closed. Now Gold is back cooking
up a storm at The American—while her ex, Michael Smith, competes with his own
upscale bistro in the Crossroads arts district,
Michael Smith
(1900 Main St.,
Kansas City, Missouri;
&
816-842-2202;
http://michaelsmithkc.com). Smith's key-
note rustic style goes for hearty, more casual food with chunky textures and deep
flavors, like his “8-hour” pork roast with green onion risotto or his homemade boudin
blanc sausage. Meanwhile, in 2004 a third expensive fine-dining option opened
south of downtown in Westport—casually elegant
Bluestem
(900 Westport Rd.,
Kansas City, Missouri;
&
816/561-1101;
www.kansascitymenus.com/bluestem),
where chef Colby Garrelts—a Kansas City native who trained all over the country—
spins out marvelous prix-fixe multicourse New American menus. From the Wagyu
beef tartare to the brown-butter gnocchi to the pork loin with lentils, spiced plums,
golden raisin, and pecans, Garrelts's cooking is imaginative indeed.
You'd hardly expect a French bistro in Kansas City to be as authentic as
Le Fou
Frog
(400 E. 5th St, Kansas City, Missouri;
&
816/474-6060
); it makes sense, how-
ever, when you learn that chef Mano Rafael (the crazy frog himself) hails from Mar-
seilles. From the steak au poivre to the bouillabaisse to the escargots, it's a Gallic
flashback—but it's also one of the liveliest and most fun restaurants downtown, with
friendly service and a gorgeous 1920s-vintage front bar. Kansas Citians hungry for
the next best thing have also been traveling out of town lately, 20 miles (32km) north
to Smithville, to sample the locavore cooking of Jonathan Justus at his chic minimalist
diner
Justus Drugstore
(106 W. Main St., Smithville, Missouri;
&
816/532-2300;
www.drugstorerestaurant.com). Justus's passion for local sources inspires dishes
such as goat cheese piped into squash blossoms, heritage pork rib-eye, or roast
