Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Open-Air Markets
14
Reading Terminal Market/Italian Market
City of Brotherly Markets
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
In a city so conscious of its history, it's no
surprise that not one but two traditional
markets have survived for more than a
century. Between the bustling Reading
Terminal Market downtown and the Italian
Market in South Philly, a food shopper in
Philadelphia could eat happily for weeks
without ever going near a supermarket.
The older and more classic covered mar-
ket is the indoor Reading Terminal Market,
opened in 1892 in the train shed beneath
the Reading Railroad, which conveniently
delivered food orders directly to suburban
matrons. The Market hung tough through
the Depression and two world wars, even-
tually even outlasting the Reading Railroad,
which became defunct in the early 1970s.
Extensively renovated in the early 1990s as
a gateway to Philly's convention center, the
Market today is definitely a tourist destina-
tion—it's where visitors head once they've
finished with the Liberty Bell and Indepen-
dence Hall—and a number of its 80-plus
merchants cater to the general shopper
with crafts, books, and gift items. But the
Reading Terminal Market still has an authen-
tic atmosphere, with small local vendors
rather than chains. Most striking is the num-
ber of Amish businesses, among them
Beiler's Bakery, Fisher's Soft Pretzels, the
Hatville Deli, AJ Pickle Patch, the Lancaster
Co. Dairy, and the L. Halteman Family for
meat and poultry products; hearty home-
style breakfasts at the Amish-run Dutch
Eating Place are justly famous. You'll also
find organic and artisanal products from
the local region sold at Livengood's, Kauff-
man's, and the Fair Food Farmstand. Many
stall owners have a long history: Termini
Bros Bakery has been here since 1921,
Harry G. Ochs & Sons butchers since 1906,
and Bassett's Ice Cream has been on this
site since 1861, pre-dating the market itself.
If it's local color you're after, though, you
may prefer the immigrant street-market
vibe of the Italian Market over on 9th
Street—a 10-block-long row house strip
where the proprietors of ground-floor
shops set out their wares on the sidewalks
under colorful metal awnings. The market
still carries the slightly gritty stamp of this
South Philly neighborhood's traditional
Italian-American residents, though later
Hispanic and Asian arrivals have added
their flavors as well (there are some great
taquerías
and pho shops in the area). A
classic Italian Market shopping spree might
include cannolis from Isgro Pastries, Sicil-
ian-style bread from Ianelli's Bakery, fresh
ravioli from Talluto's, mozzarella from Clau-
dio's, imported cheese from DiBruno's,
clams and fresh fish from Anastasi Seafood,
sausage and venison from D'Angeleo
Brothers, fresh chicken and eggs from
Carl's Vineland, or delicate veal and pork
from Esposito Meats. A wide range of cafes
and restaurants are tucked in around the
shops, including
Pat's
and
Geno's
—two
rival shrines for Philly cheese steak (see
).
The market is closed Mondays.
Reading Terminal Market:
12th and
Arch streets (
&
215/922-2317;
www.
readingterminalmarket.org).
Italian Market:
9th Street from Wharton
to Fitzwater streets (no phone; www.philly
italianmarket.com).
(
Philadelphia International (19km/12
miles).
L
$$$
Rittenhouse 1715,
1715 Ritten-
house Sq. (
&
877/791-6500
or 215/546-
6500; www.rittenhouse1715.com). $$
Penn's View Hotel,
14 N. Front St. (
&
800/
331-7634
or 215/922-7600; www.penns
viewhotel.com).
