Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Tex-Mex
247
The El Paso Two-Step
Tex-Mex Classics
El Paso, Texas
No city in the Lone Star State seems more
Texan than El Paso—nestled between two
mountain ranges on the banks of the Rio
Grande, in the sun-swept, mountainous
desert of Texas's westernmost corner. In
its day it has been prime territory for Amer-
ican Indians, 16th-century Spanish explor-
ers, 17th-century Catholic missionaries,
railroad moguls, brothel-keepers, and gun-
fighters. And being just across the Rio
Grande from Ciudad Juárez, El Paso segues
almost effortlessly between Mexican and
American traditions—which makes it a
natural breeding ground for some of the
world's most authentic Tex-Mex cuisine.
An El Paso landmark since it opened its
doors in 1927, the
L&J Café
(3622 E. Mis-
souri St.;
&
915/566-8418
) is still owned
and operated by the Duran family, its
original owners, and they offer some of
the best Tex-Mex food you'll find any-
where. Nicknamed “The Old Place by the
Graveyard”—it's right by the Concordia
Cemetery—during Prohibition the L&J was
a casino and speakeasy, later turned legit-
imate restaurant. The chicken enchiladas,
overflowing with tender white meat and
buried under chunky green chili and Jack
cheese, approach perfection; the chili con
queso and
caldillo
(beef and potato stew
with a green chili and garlic kick) are
intensely flavorful and fresh. The salsa is
spicy, the beer is cold, and the service is
quick and friendly, even when the place is
filled to capacity—as it is most of the time.
In the past few years, however, the
L&J's dominance has been challenged by a
newcomer—located in a car wash, of all
things.
H&H Car Wash and Restaurant
(701 E. Yandell Dr.;
&
915/533-1144
) is a
well-worn little coffee shop straight out of
the 1960s. It's not much to look at, but this
noisy joint is packed from open to close
with locals scarfing down such inexpen-
sive Tex-Mex specialties as
carne picada
(diced sirloin with jalapeños, tomatoes,
and onions),
huevos rancheros,
and
chiles
rellenos,
which can be kicked up to four-
alarm spiciness if you want. Sit at the
counter so you can watch the cooks peel-
ing the tomatoes, pulling tortillas from the
griddle, stirring pots of refried beans, and
chopping up green chilies for the house
salsa. Owner Kenneth Haddad uses only
the freshest ingredients and sticks with
tradition. And in case your car's dirty, well,
the car wash is pretty good too.
(
El Paso International (4
3
⁄
4
miles/
7.7km).
L
$$
Camino Real Hotel,
101 S. El
Paso St. (
&
800/769-4300
or 915/534-
3000; www.caminoreal.com). $$
Artisan
Hotel,
325 Kansas St. (
&
915/225-0050;
www.artisanelpaso.com).
