Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Delis
244
Manny's
Pass the Pastrami
Chicago, Illinois
It took another Russian immigrant to suc-
cessfully bring the deli idea west to Chi-
cago. When Jack Raskin opened his
cafeteria-style deli in 1942, he didn't have
enough money to change the existing sign,
which advertised the former tenant, Sun-
ny's Restaurant. By naming his new enter-
prise Manny's, after his son Emanuel, he
only had to buy two new letters. It was a
shrewd cost-cutting move—and who knew
the place would still be going strong under
that name more than 65 years later?
Manny's moved a few times in its early
years, but it settled into this South Loop
location, in what was once a predomi-
nantly Jewish neighborhood, in 1964. Cur-
rent owner Ken Raskin is the grandson of
founder Jack Raskin, and the son of the
eponymous Manny Raskin. Like the old-
style New York delis it was modeled after,
Manny's serves its customers cafeteria-
style from behind a long stainless-steel
counter at the front of the store. Portions
tend to be hefty, so don't over-order. You
then take your tray back to a huge dining
area, where the decor consists mostly of
Formica tables, waist-high wood paneling,
and framed press clippings and historic
photos covering Manny's long history.
Hang onto your receipt—you pay as you
leave. (That makes it way too easy to
change your mind and go back for a slice
of cheesecake after all.)
The menu is huge and has a lot of rotat-
ing specials, but the regulars—and Man-
ny's has a lot of devoted regulars, from
politicos to police officers—swear by the
crisp potato pancakes, stuffed cabbage,
and kreplach . The pastrami is worthy of
the best New York delis, though in Chi-
cago, with its large Irish-American popula-
tion, the tender corned beef is even more
popular. And here's the mark of a genuine
deli: They serve kosher brand Dr. Brown's
sodas, with flavors like cel-ray and black
cherry, well off the Coca-Cola company's
radar.
Manny's is closed Sundays, and though
it opens early (5am) it shuts at 8pm. Come
here early if you want your knishes for
dinner.
1141 S. Jefferson ( & 312/939-2855;
www.mannysdeli.com).
( O'Hare International (18 miles/29km).
L $$ Homewood Suites, 40 E. Grand
St., Chicago ( & 800/CALL-HOME [800/225-
4663] or 312/644-2222; www.homewood
suiteschicago.com). $$ Hotel Allegro Chi-
cago, 171 N. Randolph St., Chicago ( & 800/
643-1500 or 312/236-0123; www.allegro
chicago.com).
 
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