Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Columbus Day to Mother's Day, while
Bob's keeps varied hours (call ahead) after
Labor Day until the next spring's Memorial
Day.
Bob's Clam Hut, 74 State Rd. (Rte. 1)
( & 207/439-4233; www.bobsclamhut.com).
( Portland International (45 miles/72km);
Boston Logan International (50 miles/81km).
L $$ Dockside Guest Quarters, Har-
ris Island, York ( & 207/363-2868; www.
docksidegq.com).
Chauncey's, 16 Chauncey Creek Rd.
( & 207/439-1030; www.chaunceycreek.
com).
Seafood Shacks
231
Clam Alley
Getting Fat on the Ipswich Flats
Essex/Ipswich, Massachusetts
Clam fans know all about the Ipswich
flats—a tidal stretch of the Atlantic off the
rocky Cape Ann peninsula just north of
Boston. The very fattest and tastiest clams
seem to hang out here in the nutrient-rich
mud, just yearning to be dug up, pried out
of their shells, battered, and deep-fried.
Crazy as it sounds, there must be some
explanation for why so many superlative
clam shacks have sprung up along this
part of the North Shore.
These joints attract summertime
crowds from all over the Boston area, as
well as vacationers heading north to the
Maine coast or Lake Winnipesaukee, or
south to Cape Cod. For many travelers, a
stop off in Essex is an annual vacation rit-
ual. Dining here, of course, is “in the
rough,” which means you order from a
window and carry it to your oceanview
table, either inside or outside.
The oldest is Woodman's of Essex
(121 Main St., Essex; & 978/768-6057;
www.woodmans.com), which has been
around since 1914. It's still run by the
Woodman family, which claims that founder
Lawrence “Chubby” Woodman invented
the fried clam. Housed in a New England-y
white clapboard building, Woodman's gen-
erally draws the most traffic. Besides
“Chubby's” classic fried clams, scallops,
and shrimp (still fried in old-fashioned lard,
and damn the cholesterol), Woodman's
serves boiled lobsters, steamed clams, lob-
ster rolls, and clam-strip rolls.
Along Eastern Avenue (otherwise known
as Rte. 133), you'll find two other superb
clam shacks: the pleasantly ramshackle
Essex Seafood (143R Eastern Ave.;
& 978/768-7233 ) and J. T. Farnham's (88
Eastern Ave.; & 978/768-6643 ), housed in
a nondescript marsh-side cottage with
serene views from its deck. Both serve
heartier portions than Woodman's does;
loyalists claim their fried clams are less
greasy as well (though others prefer Wood-
mans's lardy slickness). Don't miss Farn-
ham's generous seafood chowder. If you're
here out of season, it's good to know that
Essex is open year-round.
Locals, however, tend to end up at The
Clam Box (246 High St., Ipswich; & 978/
356-9707; www.ipswichma.com/clambox).
Built in 1938 by Dick Greenleaf, it's hard to
miss—it looks exactly like a giant gray clap-
board box with the flaps folded open at the
top. The menu here sticks to the fried clas-
sics—clams, clam strips, scallops, shrimp,
haddock, oyster, calamari (plus chicken for
landlubbers), served with or without fries,
onion rings, and coleslaw. If you like your
clams especially plump (not everyone
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