Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Straight from the Farm
186
Bordeaux Quay
The Ever Green Cook
Bristol, England
Barny Houghton is a bit of a fanatic and
has been for years. When he first set up his
sustainable restaurant Rocinantes in 1988,
its ideals seemed far-fetched: source all
ingredients from within a 81km (50-mile)
radius of Bristol, make it all organic if pos-
sible, and then run the restaurant in the
most environmentally efficient way. Mind
you, the West Country surrounding Bristol
is agriculturally rich, and it has enough
seacoast to ensure there would always be
plenty of local fish available. The food
turned out to be so good at Rocinantes it
prospered, eventually adopting the even
greener name
Quartier Vert
(85 Whitela-
dies Rd., Clifton;
&
44/117/973-4482;
www.quartiervert.co.uk). Along the way,
some 40 young chefs trained in Hough-
ton's green philosophy.
His new baby, Bordeaux Quay, is an even
grander statement. Instead of being out in
a suburban neighborhood, it's right in the
heart of Bristol's harbor, facing the docks
where cross-Channel ships used to unload
their cargoes of wine from France. This
streamlined white Art Deco-era warehouse
has been completely overhauled into a
stark, stunning modern development that's
as sustainable as possible, from the solar
heating panels to the rooftop tanks collect-
ing rainwater for the toilets. The complex
contains a slew of catering venues—a res-
taurant, a brasserie, a bar, a takeout deli, a
bakery, and a not-for-profit cookery school
where Barny can spread his gospel.
The restaurant is a spare yet spectacu-
lar white space designed around a central
atrium, with a great wall of windows let-
ting in natural light. Black banquettes and
deep purple chairs provide splashes of
contrast and color to the white walls and
tablecloths, a strikingly simple effect that
deflects the focus onto the food itself. The
menu here is a little less Continental than
what Houghton serves at Quartier Vert—
there's a very English ring to such dishes
as smoked eel with horseradish, crème
fraîche, and pickled vegetables; a game
terrine with pear-and-cranberry chutney;
hare ravioli with walnut sauce; grilled Cor-
nish mackerel with crushed spring onion
potato, spinach, and black olive tapenade;
pot roast chicken with cabbage, carrots,
and chive-sprinkled mashed potatoes;
roast rump of lamb with beets and a white-
bean puree; and a classic rhubarb crumble
for dessert. It's wholesome and elegant,
which makes for a winning combination.
Houghton also oversees the more
casual brasserie, a breezy, white-walled
waterfront spot that serves a short but
appealing menu of pastas, soups, salads,
and risottos.
V Shed, Canon's Way (
&
44/117/906-
5550
or 44/117/9431200 for reservations;
www.bordeaux-quay.co.uk).
(
Bristol (14km/8
1
/
2
miles).
L
$$$
Hotel Du Vin,
Narrow Lewins
Mead (
&
44/1179/255577;
www.hotel
duvin.com). $
Tyndall's Park Hotel,
4 Tyn-
dall's Park Rd., Clifton (
&
44/117/9735407;
www.tyndallsparkhotel.co.uk).
